4 ms·

I have one, but I don’t know what temperature to set it to and there are probably other flaws in my technique, so it’s still trial and error.

MarkMarine 4y ago
Depends on the solder and the component, for wires there is no way to hurt it so you can crank up for efficiency, and for sensitive components you need to be more careful. It’s actually much harder to make a good solder joint with lead free solder, so be kind to yourself about it. No harm in re-doing a joint.
- WalterBright 4y ago
  You can melt the insulation off the wires :-/ Anyhow, I never fried a part with the iron. Heated the wire just enough to flow the solder, and applied heat only barely long enough. To avoid needing a third hand for some joints, I'd pre-fill the hole with solder. Then heat it up again till it melted, and push the wire in.
  - MarkMarine 4y ago
    You can get a cold joint that way. I went through the through-hole solder training for lead free solder, for manufacturing aerospace components back in the day. #1 thing they teach is not to do things like that, you need to heat the component and let the solder flow to the joint around the component, never heat the solder itself or pre-solder, etc.
munificent 4y ago
Electronics was my pandemic hobby. Even with a temperature controlled solder station, my technique was really hit or miss. Part of that is obviously experience, but the real lightbulb moment for me was good solder. Once I switched to Kester solder, I had a much better more consistent experience. My hypothesis is that cheaper solder doesn't have the flux as evenly distributed, so you get spans of solder with too little flux and then everything gets worse, then you hit a good patch and it gets better.
- WalterBright 4y ago
  Yes, flux is necessary. I use Kester solder, too :-) P.S. I worked my way through college being an electronics assembly technician, so I spent a lot of time soldering. I enjoyed making the boards look perfect. It turns out, this skill is transferable to soldering copper water pipes. Never had a leak! (Using a torch not an iron.)
- skybrian 4y ago
  Any particular kind you like? I'm still using some lead solder my wife had; maybe I should go lead-free if I'm buying some?
  - munificent 4y ago
    The one I got is "Kester 24-6337-8800 50 Activated Rosin Cored Wire Solder Roll, 245 No-Clean, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter". I have no idea which of those words and numbers are significant. :) I didn't go lead-free because I've heard leaded solder is easier to use (lower melting point?) and since I'm just a part-time hobbyist, the health and environment considerations are minimal. It's not like I'm soldering eight hours a day every day.
    - Ccecil 4y ago
      If you are going leaded...my favorite is kester "44". Pretty much can't go wrong with it. IMHO...despite the risks of lead...leaded solder is way easier to use and especially inspect. Lead free often looks "cold" just by the color of it.
Ccecil 4y ago
Set the iron to the temp listed on the solder's datasheet. Use a larger tip for higher heat transfer. Don't increase temp...this is how people burn boards and lift pads.

MarkMarine 4y ago

Depends on the solder and the component, for wires there is no way to hurt it so you can crank up for efficiency, and for sensitive components you need to be more careful. It’s actually much harder to make a good solder joint with lead free solder, so be kind to yourself about it. No harm in re-doing a joint.

WalterBright 4y ago
You can melt the insulation off the wires :-/ Anyhow, I never fried a part with the iron. Heated the wire just enough to flow the solder, and applied heat only barely long enough. To avoid needing a third hand for some joints, I'd pre-fill the hole with solder. Then heat it up again till it melted, and push the wire in.
- MarkMarine 4y ago
  You can get a cold joint that way. I went through the through-hole solder training for lead free solder, for manufacturing aerospace components back in the day. #1 thing they teach is not to do things like that, you need to heat the component and let the solder flow to the joint around the component, never heat the solder itself or pre-solder, etc.

munificent 4y ago

Electronics was my pandemic hobby. Even with a temperature controlled solder station, my technique was really hit or miss. Part of that is obviously experience, but the real lightbulb moment for me was good solder. Once I switched to Kester solder, I had a much better more consistent experience. My hypothesis is that cheaper solder doesn't have the flux as evenly distributed, so you get spans of solder with too little flux and then everything gets worse, then you hit a good patch and it gets better.

WalterBright 4y ago
Yes, flux is necessary. I use Kester solder, too :-) P.S. I worked my way through college being an electronics assembly technician, so I spent a lot of time soldering. I enjoyed making the boards look perfect. It turns out, this skill is transferable to soldering copper water pipes. Never had a leak! (Using a torch not an iron.)
skybrian 4y ago
Any particular kind you like? I'm still using some lead solder my wife had; maybe I should go lead-free if I'm buying some?
- munificent 4y ago
  The one I got is "Kester 24-6337-8800 50 Activated Rosin Cored Wire Solder Roll, 245 No-Clean, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter". I have no idea which of those words and numbers are significant. :) I didn't go lead-free because I've heard leaded solder is easier to use (lower melting point?) and since I'm just a part-time hobbyist, the health and environment considerations are minimal. It's not like I'm soldering eight hours a day every day.
  - Ccecil 4y ago
    If you are going leaded...my favorite is kester "44". Pretty much can't go wrong with it. IMHO...despite the risks of lead...leaded solder is way easier to use and especially inspect. Lead free often looks "cold" just by the color of it.

Ccecil 4y ago

Set the iron to the temp listed on the solder's datasheet. Use a larger tip for higher heat transfer. Don't increase temp...this is how people burn boards and lift pads.