The article touches on this but often, just having the appearance of somewhere that is serious about coffee or cocktails is enough. The owners probably don't ca

The article touches on this but often, just having the appearance of somewhere that is serious about coffee or cocktails is enough. The owners probably don't care, so long as they do enough business to keep things going. People will go somewhere that looks like an excellent cocktail bar, order something called an Aperol Spritz, receive something that is mostly soda water, a bit of prosecco and a tiny dash of Aperol and be pleased because doesn't it look great? And if that represents value for money to them, then that's fine. The whole idea of speciality anything eventually has to overcome the fact it will be commoditised, and there will be an abundance of low to middling quality offerings that are using the signifiers of high-quality offerings to make money.