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OT, but, I've often wondered why 'Beta' and not 'Meta' is the informal lingo for minutia in outdoor activities. A quick search of Wiki & TIL: >The original use

by tunap 4y ago

OT, but, I've often wondered why 'Beta' and not 'Meta' is the informal lingo for minutia in outdoor activities. A quick search of Wiki & TIL: >The original use of the term Beta in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber Jack Mileski. "Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format.[3] According to some sources Mileski would record himself on tape while completing routes and then share these tapes with friends. According to other sources, it was actually a play on words, as Mileski would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beta_(climbing) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beta_(climbing)

falsenapkin 4y ago
Why would you assume meta? Genuine question. I see "meta" used a lot in gaming and I always assumed the etymology for that was like it became shorthand for "meta discussion" and then the intention of "meta" became less about general discussion and more about whatever strats are most effective/popular, thus "the meta". I have no idea if that's accurate. Do other communities say "the meta" like that? If it is just a gaming thing then I can see why climbing would have a different word given the respective ages of the activities.
- tunap 4y ago
  The granular data that is derived from usage in a digital world is what I likened it to. I had no idea if beta was in long term usage, as my AZ climbing circle never used the term in the 90's.
- splonk 4y ago
  I have often heard that the popularization of the "meta" term came as shorthand for the "metagame" of Magic:the Gathering in the late 90s, when the big tournaments like the Pro Tour came about. I do recall first coming across the term then, but I wouldn't care to make any definite claims about the actual etymology. Quick explanation for those not familiar: at an extremely simplified high level, MTG tournaments are a rock-paper-scissors game (with many more options). To some extent, part of the ability to play a tournament well is external to your ability to play MTG, and consists of your ability to predict the distribution of rocks/papers/scissors/etc in the field of players, and picking the appropriate countermeasure.

by tunap 4y ago

falsenapkin 4y ago

Why would you assume meta? Genuine question. I see "meta" used a lot in gaming and I always assumed the etymology for that was like it became shorthand for "meta discussion" and then the intention of "meta" became less about general discussion and more about whatever strats are most effective/popular, thus "the meta". I have no idea if that's accurate. Do other communities say "the meta" like that? If it is just a gaming thing then I can see why climbing would have a different word given the respective ages of the activities.

tunap 4y ago
The granular data that is derived from usage in a digital world is what I likened it to. I had no idea if beta was in long term usage, as my AZ climbing circle never used the term in the 90's.
splonk 4y ago
I have often heard that the popularization of the "meta" term came as shorthand for the "metagame" of Magic:the Gathering in the late 90s, when the big tournaments like the Pro Tour came about. I do recall first coming across the term then, but I wouldn't care to make any definite claims about the actual etymology. Quick explanation for those not familiar: at an extremely simplified high level, MTG tournaments are a rock-paper-scissors game (with many more options). To some extent, part of the ability to play a tournament well is external to your ability to play MTG, and consists of your ability to predict the distribution of rocks/papers/scissors/etc in the field of players, and picking the appropriate countermeasure.