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weird hn strikes again. I learned about most of this stuff in trade tech school and I think its really neat people on this site are interested. I use rotary i

weird hn strikes again. I learned about most of this stuff in trade tech school and I think its really neat people on this site are interested. I use rotary impact drivers and drill presses all day long at work. there's no shame. gimlets see a lot of use in jewelry and my foreman once said you never sharpen them because they're generally case hardened and snap too easily. they're very fine instruments in the hand. for you drill owners out there the best advice I can offer is always punch your holes first, always wear safety glasses and learn to sharpen your bits.

eropple 4y ago
> always punch your holes first Definitely. And this is why, if you've got the money, why a drill+driver set is pretty handy - you drill with the drill, then you drive the screw with the impact driver, and you haven't had to mess around with switching your bits. (I have two of each in the shop, because sometimes I need a #10 T20 and a #8 T15 screw at the same time, and that means separate drills and separate drivers.)
insaneirish 4y ago
> always punch your holes first Anytime I'm drilling a lot of holes, screwing a lot of screws, or screwing any number of screws but with a high accuracy requirement, I pre-drill with a tapered bit (example: https://www.amazon.com/FTG-USA-Replacement-Countersink-Tapered/dp/B078JBCXL9/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_i=B078JBCXL9&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/FTG-USA-Replacement-Countersink-Taper...). They're typically used with countersink bits, but that's not how I use them most often. They're just really good at nailing a hole location quickly and accurately. And for things like framing, they are good at setting pilots for toe screws which can sometimes otherwise be annoying to do.
- eropple 4y ago
  That's an interesting hack. I typically use brad-point bits instead because I've got multiple indexes of them.

eropple 4y ago

> always punch your holes first Definitely. And this is why, if you've got the money, why a drill+driver set is pretty handy - you drill with the drill, then you drive the screw with the impact driver, and you haven't had to mess around with switching your bits. (I have two of each in the shop, because sometimes I need a #10 T20 and a #8 T15 screw at the same time, and that means separate drills and separate drivers.)

insaneirish 4y ago

> always punch your holes first Anytime I'm drilling a lot of holes, screwing a lot of screws, or screwing any number of screws but with a high accuracy requirement, I pre-drill with a tapered bit (example: https://www.amazon.com/FTG-USA-Replacement-Countersink-Tapered/dp/B078JBCXL9/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_i=B078JBCXL9&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/FTG-USA-Replacement-Countersink-Taper...). They're typically used with countersink bits, but that's not how I use them most often. They're just really good at nailing a hole location quickly and accurately. And for things like framing, they are good at setting pilots for toe screws which can sometimes otherwise be annoying to do.

eropple 4y ago
That's an interesting hack. I typically use brad-point bits instead because I've got multiple indexes of them.