4 ms·
> you need to supply your own grid grounding What does this mean? My naive reading would presume a stake in the ground?
by GoOnThenDoTell 4y ago
> you need to supply your own grid grounding
What does this mean? My naive reading would presume a stake in the ground?
- dmoy 4y agoDepends on how much electricity is involved. Might require more than a simple stake
- pyinstallwoes 4y agoWhat’s more ? Curious what it takes for large setups.
- durnygbur 4y agoA big ass steel anchor damn deep in the ground!
- harveywi 4y agoProof of stake.
- AdrianB1 4y agoYou need to put as much as needed to achieve 4 Ohm to ground or less. This can be up to ~ 10 stakes at a couple of meter interval, it depends a lot on the soil type.
- deleted 4y ago[deleted]
- thesmok 4y agoFor individual homes, it often takes three stakes, each several meters long (deep), placed in a triangular config, connected above ground.
- mellavora 4y agoa stake which doesn't corrode. For fun, put a nail in dirt. See how long it lasts.
- korlja 4y agoStake in the ground, as the sister post said, non-corroding, in the simplest case. But there is more to it: The stake has to have permanent contact to some electrically conductive layer in the ground, so you need to take geology and local climate into account. In central europe, with generally wet climate, you just need to reach the year-long stable, frost-free, local water table at a depth of (usually) between 1m and 10m. If you cannot reach sufficient depth, don't know the required depth, a simple stake isn't going to cut it. Because in case of an electrical fault, the grounding has to withstand and dissipate in the order of a few hundred Ampere. To achieve that you then shallowly bury lines of non-corroding material in a grid, or bury a grounding net something like 1 to 2m deep over an area of 100m^2 to 10000m^2. If you are on sandy or rocky ground, permafrost, arid climate and no handy body of water is nearby for grounding, you need to have a far larger grounding net or use conductivity-enhancing methods like permanent watering, adding salts or carbon to the soil or replacing it outright with something more conductive. In all, very expensive. And as for large installations, you just measure the soil conductivity, calculate the necessary grounding current and scale up the aforementioned methods.
- donkeyd 4y agoInteresting. The receding ground water level in the Netherlands could possibly impact our electrical infrastructure on a local level then, right?
- dtech 4y agoGround water isn't really receding, it's just pumped to a low level to benefit agriculture at early spring, which then fucks everyone up if the spring and/or summer is dry.
- rainbowzootsuit 4y agoThis must be a European design. In the USA, governed by NFPA 70 - The National Electric Code, the ground rod's purpose is to establish the ground voltage reference to reference the electrical systems of a building to it and to dissipate any charge buildup on the circuits. The ground rod is not there to carry current to interrupt a fault to "protective earth" - the green or green/yellow. The circuit breaker interrupts a short as you bring the protective earth wire back to the main disconnect of a building where it bonds to the neutral wire. If a fault occurs, an unregulated amount of current flows on the protective earth wire to the breaker panel and a circuit breaker interrupts the circuit.
- taneq 4y agoUsually you can just tie it to an outside copper plumbing pipe, it's metal and makes good contact with your local ground. Disclaimer: Not intended in any way as professional electrical advice yada yada. Just what I've read. (Also all sorts of weirdness can take place around grid earth vs. local earth, eg. during thunderstorms. Earthing is its own entire engineering discipline. :S )