I have done this previously using http://maperitive.net/ http://maperitive.net/ to download OpenStreetMap data and exporting roads as SVG or AI, then using Illu

I have done this previously using http://maperitive.net/ http://maperitive.net/ to download OpenStreetMap data and exporting roads as SVG or AI, then using Illustrator or Inkscape to clean up and print. Maperitive is a bit clumsy and hasn't been updated for years at this point, I think, but it's free and worked well for my purpose (which sounds like exactly what you're trying to do).