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Semi-serious cyclist chiming in about this part of the article: "Well understood mechanical bike shifting transitions to electronic shifting which requires you
by steelframe 4y ago
Semi-serious cyclist chiming in about this part of the article:
"Well understood mechanical bike shifting transitions to electronic shifting which requires you to pay more and charge your pedal bike (Not sure about this example, as in theory a bike derailleur needs not be a repeated purchased)"
One of my bikes has a Shimano electronic shifter. The others are a mix between mechanical SRAM and Shimano components. The electronic shifter has two advantages that mean something to me. First, you never have to deal with "cable stretch" whereby the alignment gradually shifts off-center and you have to use the micro-adjustment knob to re-align. It starts out perfect, and it stays perfect. Second, "oops" shifting (i.e., failing to shift before you've hit a hill and have to shift at low a RPM while applying force to stay moving) is much smoother. Those are both real advantages to me.
The problem I've run into, at least with the Shimano electronic shifter, is durability. Both the front and rear derailleurs have failed on me mid-ride for different reasons. The front because there's a part that pushes against a plate when up-shifting, and that fatigued to the point of snapping off completely after a couple of years of use. The rear because of a minor slide-out. Some sensitive part broke in the mechanism, and the entire thing had to be replaced. I've slammed plenty of mechanical rear derailleurs into the pavement or a tree stump or whatever, and they've all survived just fine, so long as the hangar was intact. I've even subjected a mechanical rear derailleur to the dreaded "get caught in the rear wheel spokes" abuse, and it came through just fine after replacing the hanger.
I've never forgotten to charge the battery, but I've heard of people on longer group rides (think 70+ miles) losing the ability to shift when they're 40 miles out into the countryside because their battery died.
The electronic shifter just seems much more fragile to me. But it's a really nice shifting experience while it works!
All that said, my N+1 bike I just picked up last weekend has mechanical shifters. I'll adjust the knob when the cable stretches and deal with the occasional "oops" when I hit hills in the wrong gear because I value durability and robustness more.
- dabeeeenster 4y agoCame here to say similar! Di2, when it works, has serious advantages over a mechanical system IMO. What era Di2 did you have that failed?
- steelframe 4y ago> What era Di2 did you have that failed? Whatever Trek was shipping on their Domane line in 2017.
- kevin_thibedeau 4y agoMechanical rear derailleurs do wear out and get sloppy. Never so bad that you'd notice with friction shifting but indexing will be degraded. It does take a long time and three or four pulley sets before it's noticeable.
- idontknowifican 4y agoi think the real digital advantage is mid-ride fine tuning. nothing like hearing a chain rub, setting the Di2 to adjust mode, and moving it till it doesn’t make noise. it’s amazing because the effect of your power in the stroke on the chain alignment is vital, and always missed when tuning a derailleur in a stand
- switchbak 4y agoI'm a mountain biker, so I may have a different perspective. I just flip the bike and dial in the adjustment by eye and spinning the crank. Assuming the derailleur isn't bent, this is usually just about perfect. I get what you're saying about power being a variable in adjustment, I just haven't found that it's a concern for me. Maybe MTB drivetrains have less flex/are less succeptible to that, or I'm just too unsophisticated to realize :)
- mrob 4y agoI assume you're a sports cyclist, where I agree that electronic shifting can make sense. For general transport use I think hub gears are a better solution to the "oops" shifting problem. Hub gears let you shift while stationary, as well as being clean and reliable. They won't win you any races, but performance is more than acceptable for shopping/commuting.
- asdff 4y agoYou can eliminate the oops shifting uphill entirely if you let off on the power the moment you shift. You need to get a feel for it but it will feel perfectly smooth like it does on flatground. I use some ancient shimano 2x8 brifters too mostly 105 some ultegra and dura ace components in there.