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Is his free solo climb of El Capitan considered an easy to intermediate route?

Someone 5y ago
https://www.coloradomountaineering.com/2012/01/guide-to-yosemite-decimal-system.html https://www.coloradomountaineering.com/2012/01/guide-to-yose...: “Requires considerable knowledge of ropework, knots, and protection to climb. Although "free-soloing", or climbing without a rope, is admired and even revered by some as the purest form of climbing, it is a rare sort of person that enjoys climbing significant class 5 pitches without a rope.” Class 5 is subdivided in 5.1 through 5.15, with ¿some/each? having a further a through d rating. The route he took is rated 5.12d, maybe 5.13a (https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=14500208 https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=14500208), so that’s highly elite. Free-soloing is easier than soling with safety ropes in the sense that you won’t have to haul up gear :-) but of course a lot harder mentally. I think ratings ignore length of the climb, and that matters, especially in this case, where there’s little to no time to rest. You have to be confident that you’ll be physically and mentally fit enough for the entire thing (climbing down is more difficult, so you’re committing going all the way fairly soon). For Honnold, that meant almost four hours.
NwtnsMthd 5y ago
Considering what an average (casual) climber can achieve in a lifetime the hardest moves on the route would be very difficult but doable. But the route as a whole is probably out of reach, it requires a tremendous amount of endurance. For a dedicated sport climber the route would be very difficult but doable.
up_and_up 5y ago
Background: I have climbed for 3 years. This is the route: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106261545/freerider https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106261545/freerider 30 pitches at 5.13a. That is very very difficult. Keep in mind: 1. Very few climbers can even climb one pitch of 5.13 (maybe top 1%) 2. Even fewer could attempt 30 pitches of 5.13 over several days. 3. Like maybe only dozens in the world could attempt 30 pitches of 5.13 in single day 4. Only 1 person ever in history that has attempted that without a rope.
- necubi 5y ago
  A small correction: there is only one pitch of 5.13a (or 5.12d according to the developer of the route), and most of the pitches are much easier. Multi-pitch climbs are graded for their hardest pitch. See the topo here: https://m.huberbuam.de/files/hb/content/topos/HB-Topo-Yosemite-Free-Rider.pdf https://m.huberbuam.de/files/hb/content/topos/HB-Topo-Yosemi... (Not to diminish the athletic achievement at all. As you say, sending even a single pitch of 5.13a puts you in the top tier of amateur climbers.)

https://www.coloradomountaineering.com/2012/01/guide-to-yosemite-decimal-system.html https://www.coloradomountaineering.com/2012/01/guide-to-yose...: “Requires considerable knowledge of ropework, knots, and protection to climb. Although "free-soloing", or climbing without a rope, is admired and even revered by some as the purest form of climbing, it is a rare sort of person that enjoys climbing significant class 5 pitches without a rope.” Class 5 is subdivided in 5.1 through 5.15, with ¿some/each? having a further a through d rating. The route he took is rated 5.12d, maybe 5.13a (https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=14500208 https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=14500208), so that’s highly elite. Free-soloing is easier than soling with safety ropes in the sense that you won’t have to haul up gear :-) but of course a lot harder mentally. I think ratings ignore length of the climb, and that matters, especially in this case, where there’s little to no time to rest. You have to be confident that you’ll be physically and mentally fit enough for the entire thing (climbing down is more difficult, so you’re committing going all the way fairly soon). For Honnold, that meant almost four hours.

NwtnsMthd 5y ago

Considering what an average (casual) climber can achieve in a lifetime the hardest moves on the route would be very difficult but doable. But the route as a whole is probably out of reach, it requires a tremendous amount of endurance. For a dedicated sport climber the route would be very difficult but doable.

up_and_up 5y ago

Background: I have climbed for 3 years. This is the route: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106261545/freerider https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106261545/freerider 30 pitches at 5.13a. That is very very difficult. Keep in mind: 1. Very few climbers can even climb one pitch of 5.13 (maybe top 1%) 2. Even fewer could attempt 30 pitches of 5.13 over several days. 3. Like maybe only dozens in the world could attempt 30 pitches of 5.13 in single day 4. Only 1 person ever in history that has attempted that without a rope.

necubi 5y ago
A small correction: there is only one pitch of 5.13a (or 5.12d according to the developer of the route), and most of the pitches are much easier. Multi-pitch climbs are graded for their hardest pitch. See the topo here: https://m.huberbuam.de/files/hb/content/topos/HB-Topo-Yosemite-Free-Rider.pdf https://m.huberbuam.de/files/hb/content/topos/HB-Topo-Yosemi... (Not to diminish the athletic achievement at all. As you say, sending even a single pitch of 5.13a puts you in the top tier of amateur climbers.)