The 'trick' back then, which I understand is still up to date is to request a transit visa, as opposed to a tourist visa, which requires/required a paid governm

The 'trick' back then, which I understand is still up to date is to request a transit visa, as opposed to a tourist visa, which requires/required a paid government guide at all times. When you visited the embassy, if you were nice enough, had a chat with the consular staff, showed enthusiasm and had a cup of tea, they would issue a 7 day transit visa which you could pick up at the border of your choice. If not, you'd get a 3 day, pre-dated visa stuck in your passport, which meant organizing a X-month trip around a three day window - tricky to say the least!