5 ms·

Totally agree! My Game Boy Advanced power light is green for about an hour then red for hours and hours on my eneloops. Also my Tascam field recorder has the op

Totally agree! My Game Boy Advanced power light is green for about an hour then red for hours and hours on my eneloops. Also my Tascam field recorder has the option for alkaline or NiMH batteries. I still have some kitchen scales that won’t work with NiMH though :( I’ve had my energiser batteries for almost 10 years and I’ve been rotating them through devices and the charger. Only recently have I begun to lose some cells. Time to upgrade them all to eneloops!!

dragontamer 5y ago
Honestly, Eneloop's advantage is overstated these days. Amazon Basics is likely an older Eneloop design for example (Panasonic makes eneloop, and seems to be making Amazon-Basic NiMHs). Energizer's "AA Recharge" series is also LSD these days, and probably easier to source than Eneloop. Eneloop deserves credit for shifting the market-perception on NiMHs a decade ago. But the other companies have caught on and have created well functioning, low-self-discharge chemistries of their own by now. ------- I'd recommend "whatever is cheapest to ship to you". Energizer mostly for me, since I buy from Walmart / Home Depot (etc. etc.). A lot of people buy from Amazon, so "Amazon Basics" tacked onto your next order is probably a good idea. Eneloop commands a higher price and has some advantages. But I find that Energizer / Amazon Basics are both good enough for me.
mikepurvis 5y ago
A quick googling reveals nothing, but I wonder if a simple hardware mod could address this— basically, identify the voltage divider that's doing the measurement across the battery and change out one of the resistors so that it "sees" 1.35V as 1.5V. Most GBA battery mod posts are about people upgrading units to have built-in lithium packs, USB-C charge ports, etc etc.
- dragontamer 5y ago
  Nope. Alkaline at 100% charge is 1.5V, at 50% charge it's 1.2V, at 0% charge it's .9V. NiMH at 100% charge is 1.35V, at 50% charge it's 1.35V, at 0% charge it's like 1.2V Totally different discharge curves. There's no simple circuit to convert between the two. ----- EDIT: For hard data, see: Energizer NiMH : https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/nh15-2300gl1220.pdf https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/nh15-2300gl1220.pdf Energizer Alkaline: https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/e91gl0320.pdf https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/e91gl0320.pdf
  - mikepurvis 5y ago
    Oh yeah, I'm aware that for any other chemistry you need an actual coulomb-counter to get a proper gas gauge. My suggestion was more about the specific matter of suppressing an unwanted and inaccurate low battery light. Though maybe instead of trying to mod the circuit board, it would be easier to just disconnect the LED itself.
    - stavros 5y ago
      Or just to ignore it.
      - ace2358 5y ago
        Haha try as I might, my child brain still panics when I see that red LED and I end up saving more often because of it haha
        stavros 5y ago
        Haha, PTSD from the Gameboy suddenly dying on you isn't easy to shake :P

dragontamer 5y ago

Honestly, Eneloop's advantage is overstated these days. Amazon Basics is likely an older Eneloop design for example (Panasonic makes eneloop, and seems to be making Amazon-Basic NiMHs). Energizer's "AA Recharge" series is also LSD these days, and probably easier to source than Eneloop. Eneloop deserves credit for shifting the market-perception on NiMHs a decade ago. But the other companies have caught on and have created well functioning, low-self-discharge chemistries of their own by now. ------- I'd recommend "whatever is cheapest to ship to you". Energizer mostly for me, since I buy from Walmart / Home Depot (etc. etc.). A lot of people buy from Amazon, so "Amazon Basics" tacked onto your next order is probably a good idea. Eneloop commands a higher price and has some advantages. But I find that Energizer / Amazon Basics are both good enough for me.

mikepurvis 5y ago

A quick googling reveals nothing, but I wonder if a simple hardware mod could address this— basically, identify the voltage divider that's doing the measurement across the battery and change out one of the resistors so that it "sees" 1.35V as 1.5V. Most GBA battery mod posts are about people upgrading units to have built-in lithium packs, USB-C charge ports, etc etc.

dragontamer 5y ago
Nope. Alkaline at 100% charge is 1.5V, at 50% charge it's 1.2V, at 0% charge it's .9V. NiMH at 100% charge is 1.35V, at 50% charge it's 1.35V, at 0% charge it's like 1.2V Totally different discharge curves. There's no simple circuit to convert between the two. ----- EDIT: For hard data, see: Energizer NiMH : https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/nh15-2300gl1220.pdf https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/nh15-2300gl1220.pdf Energizer Alkaline: https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/e91gl0320.pdf https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/e91gl0320.pdf
- mikepurvis 5y ago
  Oh yeah, I'm aware that for any other chemistry you need an actual coulomb-counter to get a proper gas gauge. My suggestion was more about the specific matter of suppressing an unwanted and inaccurate low battery light. Though maybe instead of trying to mod the circuit board, it would be easier to just disconnect the LED itself.
  - stavros 5y ago
    Or just to ignore it.
    - ace2358 5y ago
      Haha try as I might, my child brain still panics when I see that red LED and I end up saving more often because of it haha
      - stavros 5y ago
        Haha, PTSD from the Gameboy suddenly dying on you isn't easy to shake :P