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It's all fancy shit. But guess what. My 35mm camera from eighties has command back with intervalometer. I can say stuff like in 10 minutes do an hour long expos

It's all fancy shit. But guess what. My 35mm camera from eighties has command back with intervalometer. I can say stuff like in 10 minutes do an hour long exposure directly on the camera. The fact that I cannot do it on modern camera without cables or mobile phones is a travesty.

onion2k 5y ago
My Panasonic Lumix FZ82 has a built-in intervalometer, and stop motion, slow mo video, WiFi and Bluetooth remote control, and a lot more. Plus a 60* optical zoom. All for about $350 these days. Its a great daily-driver camera.
- mfranc42 5y ago
  I have Lumix S1. It has gazillion of features, but, for example, the exposure duration is limited to 1 minute. :-(
  - spaetzleesser 5y ago
    These limitations are just stupid. Thank God Fuji jumped from 30s to 15min a while ago.
    - onion2k 5y ago
      They aren't stupid. Sensors get hot while they're taking an image, and if you can't dissipate the heat quickly enough you have to limit the exposure time. It's likely that new Fuji sensors just run cooler, so they can increase the time they're active.
      - spaetzleesser 5y ago
        I don’t think that explains it. They allow you to use Bulb mode and go for as long as you want without restrictions.
      - mfranc42 5y ago
        Yes. People keep repeating this and while it is a real problem for some designs, most professional cameras allow to bypass it with a remote trigger, often an official one. Besides people were doing long exposure since like forever with great success. If the sensor overheating was a problem, it would make sense to introduce a hard limit and some cameras have them, but from my experience the likely reasons for the prevalent 30s are: 1/ most people don't do several minute exposures 2/ they need to sell remote triggers to somebody. 30s limit was there even during nineties when you could do hours on film without overheating anything.
dylan604 5y ago
With modern post processing, why would you be interested in a single 1 hour exposure vs a stacked image? One thing that most people comparing a film camera and digtal camera by exposure lengths is the fact that a digital cameras image decreases the longer the chip is energized. Heat builds up, and the image gets more noisy the longer the exposure. One rule of thumb for time lapse is to have an interval in between shots as long as the exposure being taken to allow time for the sensor to cool back down. YMMV
- mfranc42 5y ago
  I have done 30 minutes exposures with digital (5D mark II and magic lantern) with very little noise, so I doubt sensor heat is the problem. Try to bump ISO and you got so much more noise. I often need it for HDRs at night. I know I can do like wayloads of high iso noisy short exposures and average them in post, but it's clunky and even harder to set up automatically. I would prefer something user friendly. When I'm shooting at night, it's often cold and even not so safe. Fiddling with apps and cable releases is not something I'd like to do. I know that the hardware is capable of it, but they just have to sell you that cable release or what not in order to unlock the capability, which is what I'm not happy about.
  - dylan604 5y ago
    I use the same body, and shoot lots of long exposure night time stuff as well. If your doing hour long exposures, you're already fiddling with mounting gear, so small external intervelometer is the least of that needed gear. I have a custom VR rig that mounts multiple camera bodies that all shoot timelapse in sync. Imagine the cabling involved there and you can see why a single body with an external controller sounds like heaven to me. You don't have to do high ISO anything. If you're willing to shoot 1 hour exposure (which are you really doing that on DSLR?), seems like you'd be willing to shoot 30 2-minute exposures, or 60 1-minutes. What doesn't motion blur out in 1-minute shots other than maybe cars at a red light? Also, how many 1 hour exposure shots can you get out of a single battery charge (2 batts if using grip). I know doing 45s exposures with short intervals will chew up batteries for me. It seems to me that Canon has decided that if you're going to do longer than 30s exposure, you're going to be using bulb mode and an external controller. I know MagicLantern allows setting custom bulb exposures, but I haven't messed with that option. Its built in intervelometer isn't reliable for short intervals (anything 5s or less is iffy regarding consistent shooting frequency). With my wired controller, I can do 1s gaps. Anything less, and I start getting issues with dumping to card reliably on the old body. Using my custom arduino controller for .5s gaps with 1s exposure with camera mounted to car for motion blurry goodness freaked the mkII out for some reason. newer bodies handle it much better.
spaetzleesser 5y ago
My Fuji has this. Another stupid Limitation is the usual 30s limit for shutter speed.
aimor 5y ago
I wish my modern camera had a cable release, but Nikon removed the port from this line a few years back.

onion2k 5y ago

My Panasonic Lumix FZ82 has a built-in intervalometer, and stop motion, slow mo video, WiFi and Bluetooth remote control, and a lot more. Plus a 60* optical zoom. All for about $350 these days. Its a great daily-driver camera.

mfranc42 5y ago
I have Lumix S1. It has gazillion of features, but, for example, the exposure duration is limited to 1 minute. :-(
- spaetzleesser 5y ago
  These limitations are just stupid. Thank God Fuji jumped from 30s to 15min a while ago.
  - onion2k 5y ago
    They aren't stupid. Sensors get hot while they're taking an image, and if you can't dissipate the heat quickly enough you have to limit the exposure time. It's likely that new Fuji sensors just run cooler, so they can increase the time they're active.
    - spaetzleesser 5y ago
      I don’t think that explains it. They allow you to use Bulb mode and go for as long as you want without restrictions.
    - mfranc42 5y ago
      Yes. People keep repeating this and while it is a real problem for some designs, most professional cameras allow to bypass it with a remote trigger, often an official one. Besides people were doing long exposure since like forever with great success. If the sensor overheating was a problem, it would make sense to introduce a hard limit and some cameras have them, but from my experience the likely reasons for the prevalent 30s are: 1/ most people don't do several minute exposures 2/ they need to sell remote triggers to somebody. 30s limit was there even during nineties when you could do hours on film without overheating anything.

dylan604 5y ago

With modern post processing, why would you be interested in a single 1 hour exposure vs a stacked image? One thing that most people comparing a film camera and digtal camera by exposure lengths is the fact that a digital cameras image decreases the longer the chip is energized. Heat builds up, and the image gets more noisy the longer the exposure. One rule of thumb for time lapse is to have an interval in between shots as long as the exposure being taken to allow time for the sensor to cool back down. YMMV

mfranc42 5y ago
I have done 30 minutes exposures with digital (5D mark II and magic lantern) with very little noise, so I doubt sensor heat is the problem. Try to bump ISO and you got so much more noise. I often need it for HDRs at night. I know I can do like wayloads of high iso noisy short exposures and average them in post, but it's clunky and even harder to set up automatically. I would prefer something user friendly. When I'm shooting at night, it's often cold and even not so safe. Fiddling with apps and cable releases is not something I'd like to do. I know that the hardware is capable of it, but they just have to sell you that cable release or what not in order to unlock the capability, which is what I'm not happy about.
- dylan604 5y ago
  I use the same body, and shoot lots of long exposure night time stuff as well. If your doing hour long exposures, you're already fiddling with mounting gear, so small external intervelometer is the least of that needed gear. I have a custom VR rig that mounts multiple camera bodies that all shoot timelapse in sync. Imagine the cabling involved there and you can see why a single body with an external controller sounds like heaven to me. You don't have to do high ISO anything. If you're willing to shoot 1 hour exposure (which are you really doing that on DSLR?), seems like you'd be willing to shoot 30 2-minute exposures, or 60 1-minutes. What doesn't motion blur out in 1-minute shots other than maybe cars at a red light? Also, how many 1 hour exposure shots can you get out of a single battery charge (2 batts if using grip). I know doing 45s exposures with short intervals will chew up batteries for me. It seems to me that Canon has decided that if you're going to do longer than 30s exposure, you're going to be using bulb mode and an external controller. I know MagicLantern allows setting custom bulb exposures, but I haven't messed with that option. Its built in intervelometer isn't reliable for short intervals (anything 5s or less is iffy regarding consistent shooting frequency). With my wired controller, I can do 1s gaps. Anything less, and I start getting issues with dumping to card reliably on the old body. Using my custom arduino controller for .5s gaps with 1s exposure with camera mounted to car for motion blurry goodness freaked the mkII out for some reason. newer bodies handle it much better.

spaetzleesser 5y ago

My Fuji has this. Another stupid Limitation is the usual 30s limit for shutter speed.

aimor 5y ago

I wish my modern camera had a cable release, but Nikon removed the port from this line a few years back.