Don't forget no proprietary ink. I too bought an Ender 3 V2, it was about £280 I got it the second it launched in the UK. Print quality is greatz and once you

Don't forget no proprietary ink. I too bought an Ender 3 V2, it was about £280 I got it the second it launched in the UK. Print quality is greatz and once you learn its limitations you can upgrade. First upgrade is to replace the bed springs with stronger "yellow springs", look them up on Amazon. They're stronger than the stock ones and you'll need to level the bed less often. Learn to level manually, give it a year even then buy a BL Touch, you'll still need to level manually occasionally. At this point I have upgraded mine to the point it's barely an Ender 3v2. Replaced the extruder/hotend with an E3D Hemera (direct drive) which prints flexibles like a champ, got a Pi official touch screen for OctoDash and a Pi 4B 4GB running OctoPrint (Pi 4B is overkill but I have a bunch of them at home). If you do go for a direct drive the X becomes slow and heavy so next upgrade is a Dual Y-Axis, I went for the dual motor option but it splits the power from the board so torque is appalling, go for the belt type instead. At this point you'll want to be custom building Marlin firmware because the Creality version which comes as stock is lacking. If you don't want to do it yourself there a bunch of community versions you can use if you can deal with their defaults (if you switch to a Hemera or other hotend/direct drive though, you're pretty much going to be custom building forever. There are nice easy to use build tools for VSCode/VSCodium called "AutoBuild Marlin" which sorts out the hard work, you just follow the instructions to tweaks some numhers and hit build. Firmware if installed by sticking it on the microSD and power cycling the printer with it inserted. I also removed the bottom cover over the driver board and printed one with a 92mm fan slot and put an always-on Noctua with a buck converter, quieter and cooler. Final mod I want to make is to cut holes in the metal shroud covering the PSU. The Creality design covers all of the vent holes on it leaving only the tiny, loud fan hole cooling the PSU. Other upgrades include a magnetic bed for easy print removal, a webcam for remote viewing and time lapse / octo lapse (these are beautiful time lapse you see where the print hotend is out of the way) and perhaps a shroud/cupboard if you want to print ABS etc (not recommended with stock hotend or inside your home). Wrote all of this on mobile so apologies for lack of citations/links, this should all be very searchable, happy to answer questions.