> I ask [a customer] what his job is. He laughs. “I’m a wanker in finance.” So why is he doing it? “It’s a bit of fun isn’t it? And the man himself is in there.

> I ask [a customer] what his job is. He laughs. “I’m a wanker in finance.” So why is he doing it? “It’s a bit of fun isn’t it? And the man himself is in there.” > [The chef] came from a poor working-class family. Now he’s rinsing the rich and stupid. It could almost be inspiring. The article is clear that it's not about the steak.