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Your plasterboard/drywall looks different to what I'm used to. Here in the UK we have plaster with a thick paper surface. The photos in that advert imply to m

Your plasterboard/drywall looks different to what I'm used to. Here in the UK we have plaster with a thick paper surface. The photos in that advert imply to me that you have a woven surface of some sort in Japan. Staples would be unlikely to grip sufficiently in our plasterboard. I suspect that shear would not be a problem but moments will almost certainly be a bit of a problem. The failure mode here would not be the telly crashing to the floor vertically but gradually loosening from the top of the mounting and then swinging forwards off the wall. I use at least eight, six inch no 10 screws here for TV mounts into brickwork, with decent plugs. Into wood, ie stud wall I'll use shorter screws. I also sometimes use extra washers - depends on the load. I've never had a TV mount fail! A decent hammer drill/driver and a decent bit can drive a 8mm hole in a few seconds. By the time you've stapled in a hundred staples, I'd be watching the News! I would certainly not be trying to explain to the Boss (wife/partner) how the TV is held up 8) That said, those staples look like a very clever solution, given the right circumstances. Not everyone is happy with a hammer drill.

cptskippy 5y ago
> Your plasterboard/drywall looks different to what I'm used to. Here in the UK we have plaster with a thick paper surface. The photos in that advert imply to me that you have a woven surface of some sort in Japan. I just assumed that was wall paper. We had it in a living room of a house built in the US in the 1980s, it had 40 years of paint on it and was never coming off the drywall.
aikinai 5y ago
You wouldn’t just be watching the news; you could be done watching a movie on your newly-mounted TV before I’d be done with the staples! I recently upgraded to a larger TV and used the large version of this mount that used 750 staples. And my “wallpaper” here is some thick, rubbery substance that the staples can barely go through so each one had to be driven slowly with care, not using the momentum from the stapler pop. It took hours. This isn’t for speed, but for when you don’t have any other option.
jimnotgym 5y ago
(Old) Pro-tip here. The regular brown rawl type plug works fine a lot of the time, but you want one with thicker plastic... and you don't necessarily need to pay more for it. Secondly in response to you point above...use a 7mm hole, not 8. It should take anything from a size 8-10 in good materials and a 12 in rubbish materials like soft brick. If you have problems some other tricks are to put a red plug inside the brown one, or drill a 5.5mm (red plug size) hole and stick a brown plug in it. Most builders won't buy the nice Fischer ones for you, so have to improvise... For places where you have a drywall dabbed to masonry you can have significant lateral movement between the plug in the masonry and the thing you are fixing on the outside of the plasterboard. That's where long plugged fixings massively help, where the plug reaches right through to the face of the dry lining.
- gerdesj 5y ago
  Not sure why I wrote 8mm. I have tons of 7mm bits lying around, worn smooth 8) A squirt of "sticks like ..." mixed with brick or conc. dust is another solution to consider, depending on how permanent/important/immediate the fixing is.

cptskippy 5y ago

> Your plasterboard/drywall looks different to what I'm used to. Here in the UK we have plaster with a thick paper surface. The photos in that advert imply to me that you have a woven surface of some sort in Japan. I just assumed that was wall paper. We had it in a living room of a house built in the US in the 1980s, it had 40 years of paint on it and was never coming off the drywall.

aikinai 5y ago

You wouldn’t just be watching the news; you could be done watching a movie on your newly-mounted TV before I’d be done with the staples! I recently upgraded to a larger TV and used the large version of this mount that used 750 staples. And my “wallpaper” here is some thick, rubbery substance that the staples can barely go through so each one had to be driven slowly with care, not using the momentum from the stapler pop. It took hours. This isn’t for speed, but for when you don’t have any other option.

jimnotgym 5y ago

(Old) Pro-tip here. The regular brown rawl type plug works fine a lot of the time, but you want one with thicker plastic... and you don't necessarily need to pay more for it. Secondly in response to you point above...use a 7mm hole, not 8. It should take anything from a size 8-10 in good materials and a 12 in rubbish materials like soft brick. If you have problems some other tricks are to put a red plug inside the brown one, or drill a 5.5mm (red plug size) hole and stick a brown plug in it. Most builders won't buy the nice Fischer ones for you, so have to improvise... For places where you have a drywall dabbed to masonry you can have significant lateral movement between the plug in the masonry and the thing you are fixing on the outside of the plasterboard. That's where long plugged fixings massively help, where the plug reaches right through to the face of the dry lining.

gerdesj 5y ago
Not sure why I wrote 8mm. I have tons of 7mm bits lying around, worn smooth 8) A squirt of "sticks like ..." mixed with brick or conc. dust is another solution to consider, depending on how permanent/important/immediate the fixing is.