How can I work in domains like HPC (not run of the mill work, but not really “academic” either) without having formal education expose me to the the scale and i

How can I work in domains like HPC (not run of the mill work, but not really “academic” either) without having formal education expose me to the the scale and infrastructure needed? FWIW I don’t have a degree nor do I believe the average CS program is worth the money (US context ofc)