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For the climbers out there, this is an analysis of cams, or "Spring Loaded Camming Devices" as the article and Wikipedia calls them. I have never heard of a ca

For the climbers out there, this is an analysis of cams, or "Spring Loaded Camming Devices" as the article and Wikipedia calls them. I have never heard of a cam called an "anchor" in contrast to the article title and the HN title. Wikipedia does not use the word "anchor" in the entire article. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring-loaded_camming_device

pcthrowaway 5y ago
Specifically, this is an analysis of the strength of anchors built with cams. 'Anchor' in the title is relevant, but the title here leaves out critical information, because the overwhelming majority of anchors in rock climbs are bolted. "An Elastic Model of the Holding Power of Gear Anchors in Rock Climbing" would be much more apt (though gear anchors can include several other types of protection, "Cam Anchors" is not something I've ever heard) edit: upon further reading, you're right. There's no mention of anchors in the article, other than referring to a cam placement as 'a type of anchor'. It seems that the article was not written by climbers, which is surprising.
petee 5y ago
In fall arrest this is a common term, and it's super accurate, regardless whether it's common with rock climbers, these are definitely anchors. So it's not surprising that a MIT paper would use it. A more specific example, Black Diamond's camalot z4 are described in their manual as 'frictional anchors' Edit: of course there is a standard hah - EN 12276:2013 Mountaineering Equipment – Frictional Anchors
meheleventyone 5y ago
Definitely common to call any protection placed an anchor particularly in reference to building a belay position at least in British climbing.
- johtso 5y ago
  An anchor would usually refer to the collection of gear placements equalised together, not an individual placement. (Although rarely you might have a 1 piece anchor). The term anchor is more a description of the purpose than what it's made of.

pcthrowaway 5y ago

Specifically, this is an analysis of the strength of anchors built with cams. 'Anchor' in the title is relevant, but the title here leaves out critical information, because the overwhelming majority of anchors in rock climbs are bolted. "An Elastic Model of the Holding Power of Gear Anchors in Rock Climbing" would be much more apt (though gear anchors can include several other types of protection, "Cam Anchors" is not something I've ever heard) edit: upon further reading, you're right. There's no mention of anchors in the article, other than referring to a cam placement as 'a type of anchor'. It seems that the article was not written by climbers, which is surprising.

petee 5y ago

In fall arrest this is a common term, and it's super accurate, regardless whether it's common with rock climbers, these are definitely anchors. So it's not surprising that a MIT paper would use it. A more specific example, Black Diamond's camalot z4 are described in their manual as 'frictional anchors' Edit: of course there is a standard hah - EN 12276:2013 Mountaineering Equipment – Frictional Anchors

meheleventyone 5y ago

Definitely common to call any protection placed an anchor particularly in reference to building a belay position at least in British climbing.

johtso 5y ago
An anchor would usually refer to the collection of gear placements equalised together, not an individual placement. (Although rarely you might have a 1 piece anchor). The term anchor is more a description of the purpose than what it's made of.