5 ms·
The point is to have the pan well-seasoned, which requires fat but doesn't add (significant?) fat to your food, then it doesn't take as much fat to keep the foo
by kbutler 5y ago
The point is to have the pan well-seasoned, which requires fat but doesn't add (significant?) fat to your food, then it doesn't take as much fat to keep the food from sticking.
Some users claim flaxseed oil is the ideal oil for seasoning cast iron, as it is a drying oil w/ a high smoke point. https://www.cooksillustrated.com/how_tos/5820-the-ultimate-way-to-season-cast-iron https://www.cooksillustrated.com/how_tos/5820-the-ultimate-w... Others claim the "drying oil" is an incorrect theory, and that the polymerized oil from a drying oil is a coating that would flake off, rather than the desired bonding with the cast iron.
- joe_guy 5y agoAt least in woodworking, curing oils that don't have metallic driers added to them, take about a month to cure. 100% Tung oil, and (not boiled) linseed oil are the ones I'm aware of. I have no information using them on cast iron.
- joe_guy 5y agoBut perhaps the pans temperature matters.
- mauvehaus 5y agoPoint of order: linseed oil is flax oil. The flax plant is where we get the fibers that become linen. Linen seed -> linseed. There are a couple other drying oils, but my understanding is that they're more used in oil painting than wood finishing [0]. Also note that modern boiled linseed oil is not the same as the historic product, which as I understand it, was made by boiling linseed oil with white lead. The modern stuff is partially polymerized by heating it in the absence of oxygen. Disclaimer: I am not a chemist or finish chemistry expert. I'm just a woodworker who sometimes reads about this stuff. Bob Flexner is an excellent author for anybody interested in further reading. [0] http://www.cad-red.com/mt2/oil.html http://www.cad-red.com/mt2/oil.html
- deleted 5y ago[deleted]