I’d advise against this unless you have an insane appetite for risk. The problem with going there as a white tourist (and not a Turkish backpacker) is that you

I’d advise against this unless you have an insane appetite for risk. The problem with going there as a white tourist (and not a Turkish backpacker) is that you will look like you belong in some way to coalition forces. This poses a kidnapping risk in a country that doesn’t have a functional legal system, but also has a internal passport system enforced by semi-state militias. Problem is, if something does go wrong, it is not entirely clear who’s responsibility it is to get you out. Your life is not necessarily in danger, but if anything does go wrong you’re in deep shit. But if you want to see Abbasid and Mesopotamian ruins all the power to you. Just remember, you’re going to be in rural areas with a very flakey state. Iraq isn’t a poor country either, it’s just incredibly poorly managed. You’ll find the food and hotels there surprisingly expensive and bad. Bribes will also cost you western sums. Infuriatingly, if you’re American you might even be committing a federal crime by giving one demanded at a checkpoint. One thing that’s properly weird about getting an Iraqi visa is that the process is like stepping back into the late 70s. The USA disbanded rather than reformed the civil service (before it engorged itself to an absurd size post civil war again) but what’s left of it is properly dysfunctional and dated. Another thing now that precludes actually going is that there are regular ‘lockdowns’ ostensibly for COVID, but are just really an excuse to stymie protests.