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Maybe I should actually do the math; I guess I just assumed that with the full matching contributions on what should be decent 401k's, I should already be getti
by brundolf 5y ago
Maybe I should actually do the math; I guess I just assumed that with the full matching contributions on what should be decent 401k's, I should already be getting set up for that "basic comfort, not having to worry about working to survive" baseline. Not that I'm burning the rest of the money I make.
My basic view is that I don't want to be rich when I'm old so that I can make "dream purchases" or live on a cruise ship for the rest of my days or whatever; I want to be living comfortably and fully for my whole life.
- nly 5y agoThe basic rule of thumb advocated is to assume a 3-4% safe withdrawal rate in retirement. So for example, if you want a $30,000/yr (inflation adjusted) income in retirement you need to save yourself a $1M (inflation adjusted) pot. Over a 30 year career with a 5% (real, above inflation) investment return that takes $1,200/month. Lots of people think saving a couple of hundred bucks per month will leave them super comfortable. The math tells the scary reality.
- SCNP 5y agoI have this "fun" slider on my retirement account's website that shows different values for different retirement ages. In order to hit my minimum, I had to slide it all the way to age 85. "FUN"
- bluGill 5y agoThe match is different for everyone, as is timeframe. If at 20 you put in 10000 per year for 10 years and nothing at 65 you will have more than someone who starting at 30 put in 10000 every year. However in the real world you start out after college with less income, student loans, and needing to get a place to live so few do this. That doesn't even get into inflation which is also a factor.
- nly 5y agoMath: - 1 unit/mo for 10 years at 7%/yr => 172 units. - 172 units @ 7%/yr for 35 years => 1,836 units vs. - 1 unit/mo for 35 years at 7%/yr => 1,721 units Depends on rates though who comes out in front.