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One of my (very experienced) alpine hiking instructors died after a long day summiting Rainer. His team made a rookie mistake, but it’s surprisingly easy to do

One of my (very experienced) alpine hiking instructors died after a long day summiting Rainer. His team made a rookie mistake, but it’s surprisingly easy to do when you’re exhausted and you feel as if you’re nearly done with the worst of it.

hutzlibu 6y ago
I was told, most of the climbing accidents happens in easy terrain. When also experienced people get careless. My experience matches that.
- nix23 6y ago
  Another point is you get much more injuries when the wall is not steep (you slide along, instead of falling in free-air), another are stones if the wall is not steep they roll along the wall. That's a perfect example off misjudge objective and subjective dangers. An overhanging wall is much less dangerous then anything else, but your brain tells something else.
  - darkerside 6y ago
    I'd generally trade more little injuries sliding down a shallow wall for one big injury from a free fall.
    - nix23 6y ago
      For that you have a rope, that's the objective part...you would not climb (i hope) an overhanging wall. >little injuries sliding down a shallow wall Those are often not "little" the rocks rip you apart, and when you stop you look not human anymore (a bag of flesh)...happens often at glaciers too.
      - hutzlibu 6y ago
        Oh, but in the alps there are ways with a metal ladder, where you indeed "walk" a overhanging way, without rope. Not for everyone obviously.
        nix23 6y ago
        You have steelropes or hooks there too and a via ferrata set with a shock-absorber and a helmet: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata And if without securing...even a bigger objective danger for you to decide if you can do it, that's the point.
- marcyb5st 6y ago
  Not sure if you are still focusing on alpine hiking or climbing. While climbing most deadly accidents (30+% of them [1]) happen because people rappel through the end of the rope (or ropes if using half/twin ropes). Stopper knots are a 10s precaution that is often overlooked. However, it is true that on easier climbing routes it is easier to hurt yourself because you might hit a ledge on your way down. If that happens it's most likely the belayer's fault because he/she should keep "a tight leash" on the sections just above said ledges. If you let an unexperienced person belay you I assume you evaluated the risk and are ok with that. [1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/8_common_climbing_accidents_and_how_to_avoid_them-6962 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/8_common_climbing...
iudqnolq 6y ago
I'm sorry to hear that. I wasn't try to claim alpine hiking is totally safe. Just that there is less of an issue with guides taking inexperienced people beyond their competency.

hutzlibu 6y ago

I was told, most of the climbing accidents happens in easy terrain. When also experienced people get careless. My experience matches that.

nix23 6y ago
Another point is you get much more injuries when the wall is not steep (you slide along, instead of falling in free-air), another are stones if the wall is not steep they roll along the wall. That's a perfect example off misjudge objective and subjective dangers. An overhanging wall is much less dangerous then anything else, but your brain tells something else.
- darkerside 6y ago
  I'd generally trade more little injuries sliding down a shallow wall for one big injury from a free fall.
  - nix23 6y ago
    For that you have a rope, that's the objective part...you would not climb (i hope) an overhanging wall. >little injuries sliding down a shallow wall Those are often not "little" the rocks rip you apart, and when you stop you look not human anymore (a bag of flesh)...happens often at glaciers too.
    - hutzlibu 6y ago
      Oh, but in the alps there are ways with a metal ladder, where you indeed "walk" a overhanging way, without rope. Not for everyone obviously.
      - nix23 6y ago
        You have steelropes or hooks there too and a via ferrata set with a shock-absorber and a helmet: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata And if without securing...even a bigger objective danger for you to decide if you can do it, that's the point.
marcyb5st 6y ago
Not sure if you are still focusing on alpine hiking or climbing. While climbing most deadly accidents (30+% of them [1]) happen because people rappel through the end of the rope (or ropes if using half/twin ropes). Stopper knots are a 10s precaution that is often overlooked. However, it is true that on easier climbing routes it is easier to hurt yourself because you might hit a ledge on your way down. If that happens it's most likely the belayer's fault because he/she should keep "a tight leash" on the sections just above said ledges. If you let an unexperienced person belay you I assume you evaluated the risk and are ok with that. [1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/8_common_climbing_accidents_and_how_to_avoid_them-6962 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/8_common_climbing...

iudqnolq 6y ago

I'm sorry to hear that. I wasn't try to claim alpine hiking is totally safe. Just that there is less of an issue with guides taking inexperienced people beyond their competency.