4 ms·
It's usually a voltage drop detection that sets of the alarm. If your battery is going flat, or is tired, it can drop below the voltage threshold set in the ala
by ehnto 6y ago
It's usually a voltage drop detection that sets of the alarm. If your battery is going flat, or is tired, it can drop below the voltage threshold set in the alarm it off. You may still be able to start the car.
You may have a bad alternator though, if it's not the battery. It really depends on the car configuration, but it is surprising that even that short trip doesn't recoup the cost of starting.
You can get alternators and batteries that are better at your use case too, work site utes and shuttles often get used like you describe.
- Chris_Newton 6y agoYes, the voltage drop was the likely trigger for actually setting the alarm off. When I had the battery replaced, they did a quick test on the old one, and it was performing very far below normal. With the wisdom of hindsight, I should probably have left a trickle charger on the old battery now and then while it wasn’t getting much long distance driving to keep it charged up. I was just a bit surprised that there was so little warning given the dire state it had apparently reached before the alarm incident. But of course, the real problem here isn’t that a battery with unusually low usage drained faster than I incorrectly anticipated, it’s that my own car had an alarm going off that I had no reliable way to stop even standing next to it with the key in my hand. Clearly this should never be possible. In fact, I read that a lot of vehicle security systems do have some sort of emergency override for this sort of situation, but I found nothing relevant in the documentation that came with the car, and unfortunately the various suggestions I found online for similar models didn’t work on mine.
- ehnto 6y agoMy opinion and experience with car alarms is that they go off so frequently in error, that no one pays any attention to them. I have heard countless alarms go off, and not once seen a car broken into. I think it's better just to have a comprehensive immobiliser. I have also had my car stolen. They had the alarm disabled in seconds, and then had all the time in the world to get it running. The only reason I still have that car is because they stalled it in the middle of the street, and the immobiliser kicked back on, so they fled. That car is now mostly a track car, so it's actually got a pin-locked ECU that I pin in before driving it. No amount of hotwiring would get the ECU to work without that pin. Even still, it would just need to be dragged onto a trailer and I'd never see it again.