You're quite correct, I should not have described GNOME maps as offline, and my edit window has expired. Rats. OsmAnd+ (or the free OsmAnd~ version available o

You're quite correct, I should not have described GNOME maps as offline, and my edit window has expired. Rats. OsmAnd+ (or the free OsmAnd~ version available on FDroid) is definitely the primo consumer-facing OSM-powered map. I haven't tried getting it running on desktop via Android emulation but that might be workable. Another desktop app worth mentioning is Garmin's Basecamp, a free download (Windows and Mac) for managing Garmin GPS units. It also functions as a desktop map viewer that supports search and routing, though the interface is a little awkward. You can buy maps from Garmin, but you can also convert OSM data into a Basecamp-compatible format. This is very offline -- for any updates you'll have to pull fresh data, reconvert, reinstall. Or you can find someone else who's done the work for you. See https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/OSM_Map_On_Garmin https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/OSM_Map_On_Garmin