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Designing an Overkill workbench for home office

147 points by gcds 6y ago

xcambar 6y ago
Looking forward to the follow up! I have a question: what CAD software do you use? Would you recommend it to a beginner? I'm desperate in that software space, everything seems either clunky, too complex (as a beginner) or overly expensive...
- gcds 6y ago
  Writing follow up from home depo store. The CAD I use is Autodekst Invetor I got license from family company as I sometimes help with some CAD designs so its basically free for me, but if looking for cheaper/free alternative is probably Fusion 360 is really limited compared to normal Inventor but its pretty good for beginner
  - ragebol 6y ago
    I'm really liking Onshape, which works in the browser.
- sirn 6y ago
  As a beginner (have been learning CAD since a week ago), I tried OpenSCAD then FreeCAD and found FreeCAD to be simple enough to get started. I followed the tutorial in FreeCAD Wiki[1], particularly the Toothbrush Head Stand[2] one (since my primary use was 3D printing) and could get comfortable with the software within a day or two. [1]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Tutorials https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Tutorials [2]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Toothbrush_Head_Stand https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Toothbrush_Head_Stand
  - jstanley 6y ago
    For anyone else reading this: The key thing to know in FreeCAD is that you almost always want to use the "Part Design" workbench. Then the workflow for creating a part starts with creating a "Body". The "Body" represents a single solid. The major features of your part are created with 2-dimensional sketches (either on the base planes, or on flat surfaces of the part, or on datum planes that you can define). The sketches are then "Padded" up to form a solid bit or "Pocketed" down to form holes in the solid bits (although there are other operations as well - Pad and Pocket are the most important). Knowing that much should be enough to help you mentally plan your part, and then looking at the tutorials should be enough to learn how to use the UI. If you are reading this and are having trouble with FreeCAD please feel free to email me (address in bio) and I will try to help you. I love FreeCAD and I wish it was the "default" hobbyist CAD instead of Fusion360.
    - hanniabu 6y ago
      That's the difference between freecad, sketch, and blender? I often see these names thrown around but not sure if each is used for a different purpose or if they're all the same but different people just prefer different software.
      - jstanley 6y ago
        FreeCAD is a parametric CAD program. A Sketch is a type of thing within FreeCAD. Sketches are defined using constraints and dimensions, not free-hand drawing. Blender is polygon-based 3D modelling with (pretty much) free-hand drawing and no constraints or dimensions. FreeCAD and Blender can both export to many of the same formats (notably STL, for 3d printing), but their internal data representation, and supported workflow, is completely different. FreeCAD is more appropriate when you want mechanical parts, and Blender is more appropriate when you want something artistic like a figurine.
      - sirn 6y ago
        CAD is operated based on constraint, e.g. make a square box and say "I want this to be 30mm x 45mm with this point, add a fillet (rounded corner) then make it coincident with this point" and let the software figure out how to shape/position the object. While Blender is more of a free-hand drawing, e.g. make a square box, make it certain size, make a corner rounded, then move it to the a certain point. Blender has ability to do simple constraint, but it's not its primary uses. FreeCAD can also be used the Blender way but the software will warn about being under-constraint. Both FreeCAD and Blender can export to STL file (used by CAD softwares), but Blender's STL usually need to be scaled to real world measurements. In case of 3D printing, this STL file can be imported into a slicer software such as PrusaSlicer, which outputs GCode to control the printer (e.g. X, Y, Z coordinates, extrusion temperature, etc.)
    - xcambar 6y ago
      I didn't put your recommendations under test, but that sounds like solid advice. Thanks for sharing!
    - crusso 6y ago
- chrisdalke 6y ago
  Fusion 360 is free but has a certain clunkiness that is hard to get past if you’ve used other CAD products. There are many sneaky ways that people get expensive CAD licenses (I use Solidworks) - many organizations offer an educational license if you are a member. For example, check out the Experimental Aircraft Association.
- defterGoose 6y ago
  Do you like command line interfaces? If so I'd highly recommend Rhino. Any CAD suite is going to have a learning curve to it, but Rhino is as intuitive as any you'll find, while being incredibly powerful in it's features. It has a demo version (with limited save capability) so you can dip your toes in. There's something great about having the names for things be their commands: you want a line? Just type "line".
sgdesign 6y ago
I’m also in Japan and finding the right materials can be really tough when you’re mainly learning from US-based makers and woodworkers. The fact that space is also very limited here (no garages or lawns...) also doesn’t help with DIY stuff!
sokoloff 6y ago
Glad to learn about cutlistoptimizer as I looked casually for something like that in the past. I’ll have to figure out how to feed it from Fusion360. Also interesting to learn that Japanese “2x4”s are in that ratio exactly. In the US, they’re 1/2” under nominal size (so 1.5” by 3.5”). Makes it awkward to stack pieces together at times. (2 2x2s next to each other in the US are smaller than a 2x4.)
- Cro_on 6y ago
  I knew about the smaller 2x4s, but now I have a sudden irrational anger that the 2x2s are not also smaller... How 2x4s depreciate according to Twin Peaks: [0]. It appears in the US they start out at 2x4 and are trimmed down to make them look more finished. [0]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=txPcLOtbG3s https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=txPcLOtbG3s EDIT to ask if OP means 'bigger' rather than 'smaller'?
  - sokoloff 6y ago
    I meant smaller. A US nominal 2x2 piece of framing lumber is 1.5” x 1.5” (for the same reason a 2x4 is 1.5” x 3.5”) If you still want to have anger, you can take solace that 2 1x2s do stack up to be (very close to) a 2x2, but 2 2x2s do not make a 2x4. https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/wood-plastic-composites/dimensional-lumber-sizes-nominal-vs-actual.html https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/wood-plastic-c...
    - frosted-flakes 6y ago
      Actually, 2x2s are often or usually 1⅜" x 1⅜", which is rather annoying at times. I'm not sure if that has always been the case, but these days they're mostly only available in finger-joint spruce/fir/pine (presumably from offcuts of larger sizes), which might have something to do with it. (Unlike solid 2x2s, which tend to twist and warp so much as to be completely useless, finger-joint 2x2s are super stable, and always come dead straight.)
      - TeMPOraL 6y ago
chiefalchemist 6y ago
I recently purchased an adjustable height workbench from Home Depot. I'm in the process of designing a subblememtal top so I can use it as an adjustable height desk (standing desk / regular desk). I opted for with drawers but that might have been a mistake. I'll know soon. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-46-in-Adjustable-Height-Work-Table-with-2-Drawers-in-Black-HOLT4602B12/312063230 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-46-in-Adjustable-Height-Wo...
- masonhensley 6y ago
  I have two without the drawers. They are wonderful. I think they will have a much longer lifespan than the electronically controlled sit/stand desks.
  - chiefalchemist 6y ago
    Yup. I have no interest in electric. Sooner or later they'll breakdown. On the other hand, this thing is sturdy and well made. It will always be work bench worthy. My only issue is that at full-height it's a bit short for my taste as a standing desk. But I knew that would be the case. That's where the supplemental top comes in. If anyone is wondering, the hand crank is easy to turn. But if I had to I could trick it out so it's longer to add leverage and make it easier to turn. The issue with the drawers is one of leg room. I would love to be able to use them but it might not workout that way. Give me a couple days for design. Then a buildout on the weekend.
    - frosted-flakes 6y ago
      Could you take off the hand crank and fit a battery-powered drill in its place? A drill is almost a necessity to own for me, but is not something I use all that often, so if its storage place is chucked onto my desk, that would work just fine.
      - chiefalchemist 6y ago
        Con - It would have to be a drill with a lot of torque. The handle on the crank is approx 6". That's adequate for manual, but less would take significant effort. A knob would be tough (and would take too long). Of the drills I own, I'm not sure any of them could do it. But I also do not own anything super-duper top of the line. Pro - Yes, the hand crank is removable. The socket the crank sits in is maybe a 3/8" hex (female). That is, getting the drill to interface w/ the socket should be straight forward. The concern is the drill being powerful enough. -- What if the crank was larger? Say 12" or more, like a wheel? Would that help you? Perhaps the drill could leverage that somehow? But my recommendation would be - if you are physically able to use it - to extend the crank to 2 feet (or more). That should help. Let me know if you have any other questions.
dfcowell 6y ago
Watching this with interest. I’m living in Tokyo and would like to undertake a similar project.
madengr 6y ago
I built some really nice lab benches using the laminated “butcher block” tops. One has a 48”x72” work surface to accommodate deep test equipment and still have 24” of working depth. A 24”x72” shelf on top of that for more equipment. With the butcher block you don’t need additional framing for support. Just sturdy legs at either end. https://www.globalindustrial.com/g/work-benches/components/tops/butcher-block-work-bench-tops https://www.globalindustrial.com/g/work-benches/components/t...
- lpasselin 6y ago
  These are great. I kind of regret my ikea karlby.
- driverdan 6y ago
  Ikea and Lumber Liquidators (in the US) both have very reasonably priced Oak and Birch butcher block. It makes for great table tops.
  - jnellis 6y ago
    I believe Ikea stopped making solid wood butcher blocks years ago. They are all veneers now.
    - defterGoose 6y ago
      They definitely still make solid wood tabletops/countertops, but they're not comparable to "true" butcher block since they're A. Not endgrain, and B. Not as dense as hard maple.
    - driverdan 6y ago
      Looks like you're right about their countertops, they only have veneers listed. Too bad. They do still have tabletops, although I incorrectly remembered it as Birch it's actually Beech: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/gerton-tabletop-beech-50106773/ https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/gerton-tabletop-beech-50106773/
OzzyB 6y ago
Is there is link for his old UK desk build? Those steel tubes look boss, great look, and might be something I could tackle myself. This new Japan project looks a lot more ambitious, good luck xD.
- dazzawazza 6y ago
  Looks like this: https://simplifiedbuilding.co.uk/kits/desk-tables https://simplifiedbuilding.co.uk/kits/desk-tables.
  - OzzyB 6y ago
    That's perfect, thanks friend XD
  - exhilaration 6y ago
    There's a US site as well: https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/ https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/
  - elisvent 6y ago
    If you're ok with a slightly rougher finish on the casting but the same material properties as Kee Klamp, you can get cheaper store-brand variants of many of the common connector types from Global Industrial, Grainger, and other industrial suppliers. Also, structural pipe is usually pretty dirty from production and I've found it's worth the cost to just have a local metal fabricator take care of the cleaning. https://www.globalindustrial.com/c/storage/fittings-framing-rail/Kee-Klamp-Fittings https://www.globalindustrial.com/c/storage/fittings-framing-...
- gcds 6y ago
  It, looks innocent I was struggling with the frame as it weighted aorund 90kg in total was fun to tryo flip it from tabletop on the ground back to legs. But yeah there are many options to get those tubes in the West. Just my suggestion to grab impact driver otherwise you will cry :D
nmeofthestate 6y ago
It looks like this guy plans to do a lot of jumping up and down on his desk.
- throwaway0a5e 6y ago
  The copious amount of joints that are held together by the fasteners only and the non-structural deck are not going to like that long term.... but it's also a home office so it really doesn't matter what sins you commit, it'll all survive anyway.
  - flaviu1 6y ago
    What would be the proper way to do something like this? I've made a couple desks myself, but I've never been able to figure out a good way to do joints.
    - throwaway0a5e 6y ago
      Dovetail and pin it all old style. A good rule of thumb is to not rely on friction for primary load bearing (e.g. nails in tension are bad but nails in shear or a peg being held in by friction are fine). That said, a plywood deck that is glued and screwed down like a subfloor pretty much absolves all sins.
      - mywittyname 6y ago
        Dovetails are easy if you have the right tools. But that's a $100 minimum investment, so you're going to want to have multiple projects in the works to really make the investment worth it. Doing them by hand is completely possible, it just takes a lot of time and practice to get right. Mortise and tendon or lap joints are much easier to do with hand tools and are a staple of classic wood working. Plus they are really forgiving. Took off too little: grab some sand paper; take off too much: add more glue and sawdust. For most projects, glue & screw is fine. It's cheap and low effort. I use it in every utility project because speed > looks. I've never tested it, but I'm pretty sure that connection would be stronger than the wood itself.
Kaze404 6y ago
That looks like a ridiculously cozy desk. I recently just moved myself and am in the process of designing my office, and might go with something like this instead of a flat, boring desk. Thank you for the inspiration.
fh973 6y ago
I guess the room does not leave many options, but he picked the one with one window from behind where he sits.
archi42 6y ago
Some thoughts: You'll probably want some decent light under the hanging cabinets (plus some shading so you're not looking into them while sitting on your PC). Now is a good time to plan for the necessary cabling/switches/... The overall intent of the structure seems to be "make it sturdy", and yes, overkill :P If you're like me and your monitor(s) are wobbling while typing (=programming = working), a simper solution is to get monitor arms and attach them NOT to the table. So either screw them directly to the wall, or (what I'm doing) to a piece of wood clamped to the window ledge, or something like that. (That's more a hint for the general HN crowd). Have fun with the woodworking :)
- gcds 6y ago
  Regarding lighting, I will have some led white and of course some RGB strips too with overhang so no eye pain, and rgb under the small shelf too and etc :)
yboris 6y ago
My favorite design idea: move your computer out of the room. My PC is in the next room / closet and the room is completely silent. In my case all I needed was a small hole for an HDMI and a USB cable.
- ahelwer 6y ago
  Looks like this person has a triple monitor setup, so that'd be either three DisplayPort/HDMI cables or a single DisplayPort cable if they can daisy chain them (only possible if these are all 1080p monitors). It is an appealing idea, though. I wish there were an easy thin client solution where everything from your actual computer just goes over cat6. Unfortunately cat6 can only handle about 10 Gbps, vs. a single DisplayPort 1.2 cable that handles 18 Gbps. Wouldn't work for multi-monitor 4k setups.
  - war1025 6y ago
    > Unfortunately cat6 can only handle about 10 Gbps What is the main limitation for cables regarding transmission rates? Do we just need to move to fiber? I was surprised recently looking into wifi options that apparently the new wifi 6 claims to handle 2400Mbps. I assumed a wired connection would always trounce wireless (and I guess cat6 can do 4x that), but it seems like people are moving mostly to wireless setups. Is it solely because of the inconvenience of wiring things through a building?
    - rand49an 6y ago
      You still need to have multi gigabit switching and cabling to supply those WiFi6 points though!
    - dragontamer 6y ago
      > I was surprised recently looking into wifi options that apparently the new wifi 6 claims to handle 2400Mbps. The entire WiFi network can handle 2400Mbps. While a 10Gbps CAT6 cable can handle a 10Gbps connection up and down stream per wire. In short: 10Gbps CAT6 vs WiFi6 on "apples-to-apples" terms is 20Gbps (10Gbps per direction) vs WiFi 2.4Gbps. Note that each additional CAT6 cable you add to the network increases your aggregate bandwidth by another 20Gbps (10Gbps duplex). A 8-port 10Gbps switch can be organizing 80Gbps duplex (80Gbps to, and from, every port), or 160Gbps in WiFi terms.
polskibus 6y ago
I wonder what CAD software has been used. What I find most limiting is lack of good free / open source 2D and 3D software. I know there is FreeCAD and Blender, but the former doesn't have many features that exist in AutoCAD, and the latter doesn't really cover precise modeling use cases.
- mywittyname 6y ago
  Sketchup is good enough for projects like these. It's a little awkward because it doesn't have the concept of a body, only faces. But that's only relevant if you're doing simulations on the design. The biggest issue is that the web version is lacking but the desktop version hasn't been updated in like a decade. So be sure to have a shortcut list handy on another screen because you have to use shortcuts if you're going to be remotely productive.
linsomniac 6y ago
I've been working on a workshop workbench, also using 20 series aluminum extrusion. Here's a picture of 2 of the 4 pieces: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AMaBwa5pRBQfqDPQ7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/AMaBwa5pRBQfqDPQ7 Aluminum extrusion is pretty nice to work with, though in retrospect I probably wouldn't do it again for the workbench. I was able to source it from China via Alibaba, and even with $200 shipping the pricing is way less than you can get it in the US. It was so inexpensive that I ordered a bunch extra in case I want to build a custom 3D printer or CNC or something. The extra was nearly free. You can cut aluminum on woodworking tools. I went slow, and the cuts I got looked nearly as good as the factory cuts. They are quite sturdy. My idea was that I could use the extrusion channels for mounting accessories or clamping. For example, mounting rollers when using it as an in/out feed table. A jig for flattening some raw wood using a router. Channels to lock the 4 into a 4x8 assembly table, but split it apart to store along the back and sides of the garage.
- pimlottc 6y ago
  Looks good! What’s the reason you say you wouldn’t use aluminum next time?
  - R0b0t1 6y ago
    Having built stuff with it before I assume weight. If you buy decent tools aluminum is about as easy to work as wood. Maybe easier, because it warps less.
  - linsomniac 6y ago
    I meant to go into a little more detail about that, got sidetracked. Part of it was cost/ease of obtaining. Part of it was COVID delays, but it took months to get the extrusion. Part of it is that it's an extra step; I had to build the extrusion frame and then build the panels and tongue them to fit the extrusion. As opposed to just putting together a simple cabinet and top. And if I damage it, it may involve significant disassembly to replace. I kind of wanted to use it for stiffness and straightness, but in retrospect adding T track to wooden carcasses probably would have been a better option. Especially as 20 profile isn't the same size as typical T-track and associated tooling. It is stiff and strong and straight though.
redm 6y ago
Cool project. You really put some planning into it. As others have mentioned S4S lumber in the US is not standardized in size. It can vary. If your using a softwood like Pine, it will also not be strait. This is going to cause your tight tolerances to be off. You should build this with lumber that has been fully dried, and fully straitened and taken to a lesser tolerance, something that can be plained and jointed down to.
- mywittyname 6y ago
  S4S lumber is the most straight variety you can buy with the lowest variance in size.
  - defterGoose 6y ago
    Yeah, the SxS system typically isn't used for construction lumber, but a 2x4 is technically S4S.
  - deleted 6y ago
    [deleted]
60secz 6y ago
Check the weight rating on those Northern bayous. With a big monitor they won't hold the weight.
gcds 6y ago
I have part 2 already written just waiting for youtube to process video, going to post a link to part 2 about shopping all the materials!
- gcds 6y ago
  Here go, part 2 of my series with Hyperlapse video. Enjoy! https://www.techprowd.com/home-office-project-overkill-workbench-series-part-2-going-shopping/ https://www.techprowd.com/home-office-project-overkill-workb...
freeqaz 6y ago
Something that bothers me a lot with desks: The legs sticking out and cutting into your foot space. Especially when you have an "L" desk and the legs stick out to block the entire "inner corner" bit. I have a custom designed desk for my office that I had somebody help me fabricate. During that time I realized that, if you use a thick piece of hardwood, you can completely skip the inner legs. In my case it is 1.5" cherry wood. Knowing that now, I've realized there are other benefits like my monitors shaking less because the desk is so rigid. I'd definitely recommend a solid, hardwood surface to anybody looking to get a custom work desk setup!
- Wistar 6y ago
  One of the best home-brewed desks I have used was fabricated from a large, and thick solid-core hardwood-veneer door. It rested on a two-drawer file cabinet at each end and was rock-solid. I used the pre-cut hole for the doorknob to pass the cabling from the workstation to the monitors, etc. I used it for a video-editing setup.
  - slobiwan 6y ago
    I've got that setup right now, but I find that the door on top of two-drawer HON file cabinets is just a bit (about 1.5 inches) too high for a normal office chair, and isn't doing my wrists any favors either. What I really need is a very thin desktop that's just as solid.
    - mpl 6y ago
      One thing that might be an option is to suspend the desktop/door from above rather than support it from below. Attach the rear of the desk to the wall (you can use blind shelf supports, french cleats, piano hinges -- so many options!), and the front of the desk can be anchored to the wall or ceiling with some cable and eye-hooks or the like.
    - freeqaz 6y ago
      Pardon the delay. Check out something like this and it might fix your problem! I love this w/ my desk because I can adjust my height all day :) Rise UP Electric Adjustable Height Width Standing Desk Legs Frame Base. Ergonomic Motorized sit to Stand up Home Commercial Office Table. Dual 2 Motors. 4 Programmable Memory. Gray https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072XCVYVX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bDzyFbGANXB1Z https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072XCVYVX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_...
neltnerb 6y ago
This is really impressive documentation, though I comment only that this reminds me of many objects I have constructed inside a room without thinking about how to remove it =) Luckily yours does not appear to be concrete...

147 points by gcds 6y ago

Looking forward to the follow up! I have a question: what CAD software do you use? Would you recommend it to a beginner? I'm desperate in that software space, everything seems either clunky, too complex (as a beginner) or overly expensive...

gcds 6y ago
Writing follow up from home depo store. The CAD I use is Autodekst Invetor I got license from family company as I sometimes help with some CAD designs so its basically free for me, but if looking for cheaper/free alternative is probably Fusion 360 is really limited compared to normal Inventor but its pretty good for beginner
- ragebol 6y ago
  I'm really liking Onshape, which works in the browser.
sirn 6y ago
As a beginner (have been learning CAD since a week ago), I tried OpenSCAD then FreeCAD and found FreeCAD to be simple enough to get started. I followed the tutorial in FreeCAD Wiki[1], particularly the Toothbrush Head Stand[2] one (since my primary use was 3D printing) and could get comfortable with the software within a day or two. [1]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Tutorials https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Tutorials [2]: https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Toothbrush_Head_Stand https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Toothbrush_Head_Stand
- jstanley 6y ago
  For anyone else reading this: The key thing to know in FreeCAD is that you almost always want to use the "Part Design" workbench. Then the workflow for creating a part starts with creating a "Body". The "Body" represents a single solid. The major features of your part are created with 2-dimensional sketches (either on the base planes, or on flat surfaces of the part, or on datum planes that you can define). The sketches are then "Padded" up to form a solid bit or "Pocketed" down to form holes in the solid bits (although there are other operations as well - Pad and Pocket are the most important). Knowing that much should be enough to help you mentally plan your part, and then looking at the tutorials should be enough to learn how to use the UI. If you are reading this and are having trouble with FreeCAD please feel free to email me (address in bio) and I will try to help you. I love FreeCAD and I wish it was the "default" hobbyist CAD instead of Fusion360.
  - hanniabu 6y ago
    That's the difference between freecad, sketch, and blender? I often see these names thrown around but not sure if each is used for a different purpose or if they're all the same but different people just prefer different software.
    - jstanley 6y ago
      FreeCAD is a parametric CAD program. A Sketch is a type of thing within FreeCAD. Sketches are defined using constraints and dimensions, not free-hand drawing. Blender is polygon-based 3D modelling with (pretty much) free-hand drawing and no constraints or dimensions. FreeCAD and Blender can both export to many of the same formats (notably STL, for 3d printing), but their internal data representation, and supported workflow, is completely different. FreeCAD is more appropriate when you want mechanical parts, and Blender is more appropriate when you want something artistic like a figurine.
    - sirn 6y ago
      CAD is operated based on constraint, e.g. make a square box and say "I want this to be 30mm x 45mm with this point, add a fillet (rounded corner) then make it coincident with this point" and let the software figure out how to shape/position the object. While Blender is more of a free-hand drawing, e.g. make a square box, make it certain size, make a corner rounded, then move it to the a certain point. Blender has ability to do simple constraint, but it's not its primary uses. FreeCAD can also be used the Blender way but the software will warn about being under-constraint. Both FreeCAD and Blender can export to STL file (used by CAD softwares), but Blender's STL usually need to be scaled to real world measurements. In case of 3D printing, this STL file can be imported into a slicer software such as PrusaSlicer, which outputs GCode to control the printer (e.g. X, Y, Z coordinates, extrusion temperature, etc.)
  - xcambar 6y ago
    I didn't put your recommendations under test, but that sounds like solid advice. Thanks for sharing!
  - crusso 6y ago
chrisdalke 6y ago
Fusion 360 is free but has a certain clunkiness that is hard to get past if you’ve used other CAD products. There are many sneaky ways that people get expensive CAD licenses (I use Solidworks) - many organizations offer an educational license if you are a member. For example, check out the Experimental Aircraft Association.
defterGoose 6y ago
Do you like command line interfaces? If so I'd highly recommend Rhino. Any CAD suite is going to have a learning curve to it, but Rhino is as intuitive as any you'll find, while being incredibly powerful in it's features. It has a demo version (with limited save capability) so you can dip your toes in. There's something great about having the names for things be their commands: you want a line? Just type "line".

sgdesign 6y ago

I’m also in Japan and finding the right materials can be really tough when you’re mainly learning from US-based makers and woodworkers. The fact that space is also very limited here (no garages or lawns...) also doesn’t help with DIY stuff!

sokoloff 6y ago

Glad to learn about cutlistoptimizer as I looked casually for something like that in the past. I’ll have to figure out how to feed it from Fusion360. Also interesting to learn that Japanese “2x4”s are in that ratio exactly. In the US, they’re 1/2” under nominal size (so 1.5” by 3.5”). Makes it awkward to stack pieces together at times. (2 2x2s next to each other in the US are smaller than a 2x4.)

Cro_on 6y ago
I knew about the smaller 2x4s, but now I have a sudden irrational anger that the 2x2s are not also smaller... How 2x4s depreciate according to Twin Peaks: [0]. It appears in the US they start out at 2x4 and are trimmed down to make them look more finished. [0]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=txPcLOtbG3s https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=txPcLOtbG3s EDIT to ask if OP means 'bigger' rather than 'smaller'?
- sokoloff 6y ago
  I meant smaller. A US nominal 2x2 piece of framing lumber is 1.5” x 1.5” (for the same reason a 2x4 is 1.5” x 3.5”) If you still want to have anger, you can take solace that 2 1x2s do stack up to be (very close to) a 2x2, but 2 2x2s do not make a 2x4. https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/wood-plastic-composites/dimensional-lumber-sizes-nominal-vs-actual.html https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/wood-plastic-c...
  - frosted-flakes 6y ago
    Actually, 2x2s are often or usually 1⅜" x 1⅜", which is rather annoying at times. I'm not sure if that has always been the case, but these days they're mostly only available in finger-joint spruce/fir/pine (presumably from offcuts of larger sizes), which might have something to do with it. (Unlike solid 2x2s, which tend to twist and warp so much as to be completely useless, finger-joint 2x2s are super stable, and always come dead straight.)
    - TeMPOraL 6y ago

chiefalchemist 6y ago

I recently purchased an adjustable height workbench from Home Depot. I'm in the process of designing a subblememtal top so I can use it as an adjustable height desk (standing desk / regular desk). I opted for with drawers but that might have been a mistake. I'll know soon. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-46-in-Adjustable-Height-Work-Table-with-2-Drawers-in-Black-HOLT4602B12/312063230 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-46-in-Adjustable-Height-Wo...

masonhensley 6y ago
I have two without the drawers. They are wonderful. I think they will have a much longer lifespan than the electronically controlled sit/stand desks.
- chiefalchemist 6y ago
  Yup. I have no interest in electric. Sooner or later they'll breakdown. On the other hand, this thing is sturdy and well made. It will always be work bench worthy. My only issue is that at full-height it's a bit short for my taste as a standing desk. But I knew that would be the case. That's where the supplemental top comes in. If anyone is wondering, the hand crank is easy to turn. But if I had to I could trick it out so it's longer to add leverage and make it easier to turn. The issue with the drawers is one of leg room. I would love to be able to use them but it might not workout that way. Give me a couple days for design. Then a buildout on the weekend.
  - frosted-flakes 6y ago
    Could you take off the hand crank and fit a battery-powered drill in its place? A drill is almost a necessity to own for me, but is not something I use all that often, so if its storage place is chucked onto my desk, that would work just fine.
    - chiefalchemist 6y ago
      Con - It would have to be a drill with a lot of torque. The handle on the crank is approx 6". That's adequate for manual, but less would take significant effort. A knob would be tough (and would take too long). Of the drills I own, I'm not sure any of them could do it. But I also do not own anything super-duper top of the line. Pro - Yes, the hand crank is removable. The socket the crank sits in is maybe a 3/8" hex (female). That is, getting the drill to interface w/ the socket should be straight forward. The concern is the drill being powerful enough. -- What if the crank was larger? Say 12" or more, like a wheel? Would that help you? Perhaps the drill could leverage that somehow? But my recommendation would be - if you are physically able to use it - to extend the crank to 2 feet (or more). That should help. Let me know if you have any other questions.

dfcowell 6y ago

Watching this with interest. I’m living in Tokyo and would like to undertake a similar project.

madengr 6y ago

I built some really nice lab benches using the laminated “butcher block” tops. One has a 48”x72” work surface to accommodate deep test equipment and still have 24” of working depth. A 24”x72” shelf on top of that for more equipment. With the butcher block you don’t need additional framing for support. Just sturdy legs at either end. https://www.globalindustrial.com/g/work-benches/components/tops/butcher-block-work-bench-tops https://www.globalindustrial.com/g/work-benches/components/t...

lpasselin 6y ago
These are great. I kind of regret my ikea karlby.
driverdan 6y ago
Ikea and Lumber Liquidators (in the US) both have very reasonably priced Oak and Birch butcher block. It makes for great table tops.
- jnellis 6y ago
  I believe Ikea stopped making solid wood butcher blocks years ago. They are all veneers now.
  - defterGoose 6y ago
    They definitely still make solid wood tabletops/countertops, but they're not comparable to "true" butcher block since they're A. Not endgrain, and B. Not as dense as hard maple.
  - driverdan 6y ago
    Looks like you're right about their countertops, they only have veneers listed. Too bad. They do still have tabletops, although I incorrectly remembered it as Birch it's actually Beech: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/gerton-tabletop-beech-50106773/ https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/gerton-tabletop-beech-50106773/

OzzyB 6y ago

Is there is link for his old UK desk build? Those steel tubes look boss, great look, and might be something I could tackle myself. This new Japan project looks a lot more ambitious, good luck xD.

dazzawazza 6y ago
Looks like this: https://simplifiedbuilding.co.uk/kits/desk-tables https://simplifiedbuilding.co.uk/kits/desk-tables.
- OzzyB 6y ago
  That's perfect, thanks friend XD
- exhilaration 6y ago
  There's a US site as well: https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/ https://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/
- elisvent 6y ago
  If you're ok with a slightly rougher finish on the casting but the same material properties as Kee Klamp, you can get cheaper store-brand variants of many of the common connector types from Global Industrial, Grainger, and other industrial suppliers. Also, structural pipe is usually pretty dirty from production and I've found it's worth the cost to just have a local metal fabricator take care of the cleaning. https://www.globalindustrial.com/c/storage/fittings-framing-rail/Kee-Klamp-Fittings https://www.globalindustrial.com/c/storage/fittings-framing-...
gcds 6y ago
It, looks innocent I was struggling with the frame as it weighted aorund 90kg in total was fun to tryo flip it from tabletop on the ground back to legs. But yeah there are many options to get those tubes in the West. Just my suggestion to grab impact driver otherwise you will cry :D

nmeofthestate 6y ago

It looks like this guy plans to do a lot of jumping up and down on his desk.

throwaway0a5e 6y ago
The copious amount of joints that are held together by the fasteners only and the non-structural deck are not going to like that long term.... but it's also a home office so it really doesn't matter what sins you commit, it'll all survive anyway.
- flaviu1 6y ago
  What would be the proper way to do something like this? I've made a couple desks myself, but I've never been able to figure out a good way to do joints.
  - throwaway0a5e 6y ago
    Dovetail and pin it all old style. A good rule of thumb is to not rely on friction for primary load bearing (e.g. nails in tension are bad but nails in shear or a peg being held in by friction are fine). That said, a plywood deck that is glued and screwed down like a subfloor pretty much absolves all sins.
    - mywittyname 6y ago
      Dovetails are easy if you have the right tools. But that's a $100 minimum investment, so you're going to want to have multiple projects in the works to really make the investment worth it. Doing them by hand is completely possible, it just takes a lot of time and practice to get right. Mortise and tendon or lap joints are much easier to do with hand tools and are a staple of classic wood working. Plus they are really forgiving. Took off too little: grab some sand paper; take off too much: add more glue and sawdust. For most projects, glue & screw is fine. It's cheap and low effort. I use it in every utility project because speed > looks. I've never tested it, but I'm pretty sure that connection would be stronger than the wood itself.

Kaze404 6y ago

That looks like a ridiculously cozy desk. I recently just moved myself and am in the process of designing my office, and might go with something like this instead of a flat, boring desk. Thank you for the inspiration.

fh973 6y ago

I guess the room does not leave many options, but he picked the one with one window from behind where he sits.

archi42 6y ago

Some thoughts: You'll probably want some decent light under the hanging cabinets (plus some shading so you're not looking into them while sitting on your PC). Now is a good time to plan for the necessary cabling/switches/... The overall intent of the structure seems to be "make it sturdy", and yes, overkill :P If you're like me and your monitor(s) are wobbling while typing (=programming = working), a simper solution is to get monitor arms and attach them NOT to the table. So either screw them directly to the wall, or (what I'm doing) to a piece of wood clamped to the window ledge, or something like that. (That's more a hint for the general HN crowd). Have fun with the woodworking :)

gcds 6y ago
Regarding lighting, I will have some led white and of course some RGB strips too with overhang so no eye pain, and rgb under the small shelf too and etc :)

yboris 6y ago

My favorite design idea: move your computer out of the room. My PC is in the next room / closet and the room is completely silent. In my case all I needed was a small hole for an HDMI and a USB cable.

ahelwer 6y ago
Looks like this person has a triple monitor setup, so that'd be either three DisplayPort/HDMI cables or a single DisplayPort cable if they can daisy chain them (only possible if these are all 1080p monitors). It is an appealing idea, though. I wish there were an easy thin client solution where everything from your actual computer just goes over cat6. Unfortunately cat6 can only handle about 10 Gbps, vs. a single DisplayPort 1.2 cable that handles 18 Gbps. Wouldn't work for multi-monitor 4k setups.
- war1025 6y ago
  > Unfortunately cat6 can only handle about 10 Gbps What is the main limitation for cables regarding transmission rates? Do we just need to move to fiber? I was surprised recently looking into wifi options that apparently the new wifi 6 claims to handle 2400Mbps. I assumed a wired connection would always trounce wireless (and I guess cat6 can do 4x that), but it seems like people are moving mostly to wireless setups. Is it solely because of the inconvenience of wiring things through a building?
  - rand49an 6y ago
    You still need to have multi gigabit switching and cabling to supply those WiFi6 points though!
  - dragontamer 6y ago
    > I was surprised recently looking into wifi options that apparently the new wifi 6 claims to handle 2400Mbps. The entire WiFi network can handle 2400Mbps. While a 10Gbps CAT6 cable can handle a 10Gbps connection up and down stream per wire. In short: 10Gbps CAT6 vs WiFi6 on "apples-to-apples" terms is 20Gbps (10Gbps per direction) vs WiFi 2.4Gbps. Note that each additional CAT6 cable you add to the network increases your aggregate bandwidth by another 20Gbps (10Gbps duplex). A 8-port 10Gbps switch can be organizing 80Gbps duplex (80Gbps to, and from, every port), or 160Gbps in WiFi terms.

polskibus 6y ago

I wonder what CAD software has been used. What I find most limiting is lack of good free / open source 2D and 3D software. I know there is FreeCAD and Blender, but the former doesn't have many features that exist in AutoCAD, and the latter doesn't really cover precise modeling use cases.

mywittyname 6y ago
Sketchup is good enough for projects like these. It's a little awkward because it doesn't have the concept of a body, only faces. But that's only relevant if you're doing simulations on the design. The biggest issue is that the web version is lacking but the desktop version hasn't been updated in like a decade. So be sure to have a shortcut list handy on another screen because you have to use shortcuts if you're going to be remotely productive.

linsomniac 6y ago

I've been working on a workshop workbench, also using 20 series aluminum extrusion. Here's a picture of 2 of the 4 pieces: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AMaBwa5pRBQfqDPQ7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/AMaBwa5pRBQfqDPQ7 Aluminum extrusion is pretty nice to work with, though in retrospect I probably wouldn't do it again for the workbench. I was able to source it from China via Alibaba, and even with $200 shipping the pricing is way less than you can get it in the US. It was so inexpensive that I ordered a bunch extra in case I want to build a custom 3D printer or CNC or something. The extra was nearly free. You can cut aluminum on woodworking tools. I went slow, and the cuts I got looked nearly as good as the factory cuts. They are quite sturdy. My idea was that I could use the extrusion channels for mounting accessories or clamping. For example, mounting rollers when using it as an in/out feed table. A jig for flattening some raw wood using a router. Channels to lock the 4 into a 4x8 assembly table, but split it apart to store along the back and sides of the garage.

pimlottc 6y ago
Looks good! What’s the reason you say you wouldn’t use aluminum next time?
- R0b0t1 6y ago
  Having built stuff with it before I assume weight. If you buy decent tools aluminum is about as easy to work as wood. Maybe easier, because it warps less.
- linsomniac 6y ago
  I meant to go into a little more detail about that, got sidetracked. Part of it was cost/ease of obtaining. Part of it was COVID delays, but it took months to get the extrusion. Part of it is that it's an extra step; I had to build the extrusion frame and then build the panels and tongue them to fit the extrusion. As opposed to just putting together a simple cabinet and top. And if I damage it, it may involve significant disassembly to replace. I kind of wanted to use it for stiffness and straightness, but in retrospect adding T track to wooden carcasses probably would have been a better option. Especially as 20 profile isn't the same size as typical T-track and associated tooling. It is stiff and strong and straight though.

redm 6y ago

Cool project. You really put some planning into it. As others have mentioned S4S lumber in the US is not standardized in size. It can vary. If your using a softwood like Pine, it will also not be strait. This is going to cause your tight tolerances to be off. You should build this with lumber that has been fully dried, and fully straitened and taken to a lesser tolerance, something that can be plained and jointed down to.

mywittyname 6y ago
S4S lumber is the most straight variety you can buy with the lowest variance in size.
- defterGoose 6y ago
  Yeah, the SxS system typically isn't used for construction lumber, but a 2x4 is technically S4S.
- deleted 6y ago
  [deleted]

60secz 6y ago

Check the weight rating on those Northern bayous. With a big monitor they won't hold the weight.

gcds 6y ago

I have part 2 already written just waiting for youtube to process video, going to post a link to part 2 about shopping all the materials!

gcds 6y ago
Here go, part 2 of my series with Hyperlapse video. Enjoy! https://www.techprowd.com/home-office-project-overkill-workbench-series-part-2-going-shopping/ https://www.techprowd.com/home-office-project-overkill-workb...

freeqaz 6y ago

Something that bothers me a lot with desks: The legs sticking out and cutting into your foot space. Especially when you have an "L" desk and the legs stick out to block the entire "inner corner" bit. I have a custom designed desk for my office that I had somebody help me fabricate. During that time I realized that, if you use a thick piece of hardwood, you can completely skip the inner legs. In my case it is 1.5" cherry wood. Knowing that now, I've realized there are other benefits like my monitors shaking less because the desk is so rigid. I'd definitely recommend a solid, hardwood surface to anybody looking to get a custom work desk setup!

Wistar 6y ago
One of the best home-brewed desks I have used was fabricated from a large, and thick solid-core hardwood-veneer door. It rested on a two-drawer file cabinet at each end and was rock-solid. I used the pre-cut hole for the doorknob to pass the cabling from the workstation to the monitors, etc. I used it for a video-editing setup.
- slobiwan 6y ago
  I've got that setup right now, but I find that the door on top of two-drawer HON file cabinets is just a bit (about 1.5 inches) too high for a normal office chair, and isn't doing my wrists any favors either. What I really need is a very thin desktop that's just as solid.
  - mpl 6y ago
    One thing that might be an option is to suspend the desktop/door from above rather than support it from below. Attach the rear of the desk to the wall (you can use blind shelf supports, french cleats, piano hinges -- so many options!), and the front of the desk can be anchored to the wall or ceiling with some cable and eye-hooks or the like.
  - freeqaz 6y ago
    Pardon the delay. Check out something like this and it might fix your problem! I love this w/ my desk because I can adjust my height all day :) Rise UP Electric Adjustable Height Width Standing Desk Legs Frame Base. Ergonomic Motorized sit to Stand up Home Commercial Office Table. Dual 2 Motors. 4 Programmable Memory. Gray https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072XCVYVX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bDzyFbGANXB1Z https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072XCVYVX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_...

neltnerb 6y ago

This is really impressive documentation, though I comment only that this reminds me of many objects I have constructed inside a room without thinking about how to remove it =) Luckily yours does not appear to be concrete...