5 ms·
You say this like it's somehow going to generate 12000 watts, or that somehow having an overbuilt cable is dangerous? Yes, the connector is way overbuilt for ru
by stickfigure 6y ago
You say this like it's somehow going to generate 12000 watts, or that somehow having an overbuilt cable is dangerous? Yes, the connector is way overbuilt for running 15amp 120v loads, but that's a good thing. You don't want the connector to be the weakest link.
I'm not sure why you think wattage numbers are more relevant than amperage numbers? Amps are what heat the cable and blow breakers.
Unless it's fused, absolutely nothing about a cable or connector stops you from drawing excessive amperage through it. You use splitters probably every day, and every one of those receptacles is capable of drawing full amperage. If you draw too much you pop the breaker in the panel. The breaker must always be rated lower than the wiring attached to it. Everyone with an old house who has tried to run the microwave, toaster, and fridge at the same time has experienced this.
14-50 plugs are more interesting than all this because they're two hots, a neutral, and a ground. If you adapt it to 120v shore power (with a 5-15 plug) you are using split phase power, so one of the hots will be dead. In theory you could draw 50 amps of 120v through that cable, but the box you're plugging into will pop the circuit long before then. Also, this is why your rooftop A/C doesn't work when plugged into 120v shore power - rooftop air conditioners are usually 240v appliances.
- m463 6y agoI didn't use amps because that is exactly what confuses people. They use 30 amp pigtails for a 50 amp connector and figure it's just a little more. Would it work better if I said 50 amp @ 240 is really 100 amp @ 120? I have not extensively tested a 15-amp pigtail but as far as I know the circuit is identical. I have a 15->30 plus a 30->50. (btw rooftop AC is 120v and all circuits/both legs work in my rv plugged into a pigtail)