3 ms·

> I would be more concerned about the gender-opposite of the connector shown (ie, L5-20Plug to 5-15Receptacle). That would allow you to plug a 15-amp rated cabl

> I would be more concerned about the gender-opposite of the connector shown (ie, L5-20Plug to 5-15Receptacle). That would allow you to plug a 15-amp rated cable into a circuit which is defended by a 20amp breaker - now the cable is the weakest link. Huh? Isn't plugging 15-amp appliances (with cables only rated for that) into 20-amp circuits totally normal? I have a few NEMA 5-20 receptacles in my home; in fact I think the latest code requires that kitchens have at least two of them. They accept NEMA 5-15 plugs, and I use them in that fashion without a second thought. You probably do, too. My understanding is that the circuit breaker protects the wiring in your wall from excessive current. If your appliance may draw more current than its cable can handle, shouldn't it have its own fuse/breaker? The adapter cable that Rachel mentions allows plugging a 20-amp appliance into a circuit that may actually have a 20-amp breaker, with this plug between that's only rated for 15 amps and doesn't have a built-in fuse/breaker. (I wonder if the cable is at the proper gauge for 20 amps or not.) That doesn't sound proper to me...

stickfigure 6y ago
The problem is when you plug one of these (as someone already linked) into the 20 amp socket: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-12-ft-2-Wire-16-Gauge-Polarized-Indoor-Extension-Cord-White-51954/203806535 https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-12-ft-2-Wire-16-Gauge-Polariz... Everyone in the US has a bunch of these. 16ga is good for 13 amps. Even if everything is working properly, two 10-amp devices will draw 20 amps and the cable will melt before the breaker pops. If everything is not working properly, and there is a short-circuit, the cable will still probably melt before the breaker pops. This is why the OP gets it exactly backwards - she is looking at the big cable/connector and thinking "that's dangerous!" No, danger comes from the weakest link in the system, not the strongest. That weakest link must be a fuse or breaker.

stickfigure 6y ago

The problem is when you plug one of these (as someone already linked) into the 20 amp socket: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-12-ft-2-Wire-16-Gauge-Polarized-Indoor-Extension-Cord-White-51954/203806535 https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-12-ft-2-Wire-16-Gauge-Polariz... Everyone in the US has a bunch of these. 16ga is good for 13 amps. Even if everything is working properly, two 10-amp devices will draw 20 amps and the cable will melt before the breaker pops. If everything is not working properly, and there is a short-circuit, the cable will still probably melt before the breaker pops. This is why the OP gets it exactly backwards - she is looking at the big cable/connector and thinking "that's dangerous!" No, danger comes from the weakest link in the system, not the strongest. That weakest link must be a fuse or breaker.