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Plug another NAT router into your NAT router. Ensure it's not bridging. WorkLaptop -> NAT/WifiRouter1 plugged into NAT/WifiRouter2 plugged into ISP Make sure
by dylz 6y ago
Plug another NAT router into your NAT router. Ensure it's not bridging.
WorkLaptop -> NAT/WifiRouter1 plugged into NAT/WifiRouter2 plugged into ISP
Make sure DHCP ranges do not overlap, and this should lazily accomplish what you're looking for, as long as you don't port forward anything or enable UPnP on the one WorkLaptop connects to.
A switch does not help here.
- natch 6y agoHmm, thanks. I don’t get everything here so I would invite others, even if they have the same solution, to explain it in other words. But this helps. Good to have the switch question tentatively cleared up. I know what NAT is but are all routers not potentially NAT routers? Does this just mean any old router that happens to be configured for NAT? There we get into the (scary) configuration area I wanted to avoid but maybe if it’s just setting the address range I can handle that much.
- dylz 6y agoMost (99%+) consumer stuff will default to NATing. You can turn it off. Usually just set something like router2 = 192.168.2.0/24, router1 = 192.168.1.0/24, and you're fine. If you don't do this, you end up with conflicts/no route to host/no connectivity. Do note that this is not a guarantee and a kind of side-effect. It may still be possible to sniff all traffic, look for ARP, etc. What you really want is a prosumer or enterprise device that can totally separate VLANs.
- natch 6y agoHave any examples of any such devices on the prosumer (affordable-ish) side? To say my “adversary” here is very sophisticated would not be overstating things.
- dylz 6y agoSorry, didn't notice this. Cheap consumer devices - see OpenWRT's site for compatible ones you can flash firmware onto, otherwise <$100 Edgerouter/Edgemax from UI is common.