I've surfed a perfect wave, and it's never what you expect it to be. It's the shitty, sloppy day that nobody wants to go out and you end up catching 30 rides th

I've surfed a perfect wave, and it's never what you expect it to be. It's the shitty, sloppy day that nobody wants to go out and you end up catching 30 rides that are so crappy that you're not afraid to try something new. It's the wave you catch the night you find out your childhood dog has been put down 1000 miles away and the sky is blood red from a strange sunset. It's ocean beach in SF when the fog is out and you're all alone wondering if you're chum. It's the wave that's a workable left when everyone else is going right for some reason you just can't understand. It's the wave you catch surfing with one of your best friends a month before you move to a new town and you know a lot of things are about to change. I don't think I could ever have any of these feelings or experiences at a wave generator.