I was told that most wineries don't make a lot of money from selling their higher-end wines; they produce them because they establish the reputation of the wine

I was told that most wineries don't make a lot of money from selling their higher-end wines; they produce them because they establish the reputation of the winery in the eyes of influencers (wine critics, restaurant wine buyers, snobs, etc.) -- those who know wine well. So, while the sommelier might think poorly of, say, Mondavi's "Costal" label, he could still offer it as the budget selection on the by-the-glass list and feel good about it due to the quality of Mondavi's higher-end offerings (ignore Opus One as most consider it an over-priced way to impress clients at business dinners). Also, when a consumer who just wants something white and fruity sees the lower-end Mondavi labels, he can recall what his wine snob friend had to say about the brand's better stuff. Perhaps publishing houses and newspapers act similarly?