3 ms·
Most of the guides for digital will concentrate on post-processing, as the actual shot is quite simple, and you can tweak everything as you have instant feedbac
by miahi 6y ago
Most of the guides for digital will concentrate on post-processing, as the actual shot is quite simple, and you can tweak everything as you have instant feedback. If you can see the milky way with the naked eye, you need: tripod + wide lens (24mm on full frame is ok) with wider aperture, manual focus (using the display zoom function for best results) as autofocus on stars doesn't always work, manual exposure for something like ISO 1600-3200, around 20 seconds exposure on f/2.8, 10 second timer exposure, press the shutter and leave the camera to stabilize on the tripod.
The key is to find the places where you can see the milky way and to plan ahead - a moonless and cloudless night is important. There are websites[1] and tools[2] or that.
Some results based on the above, with minimal post processing (as I'm not good at it): https://miahi.ro/photos/perseide-2017/ https://miahi.ro/photos/perseide-2017/. The first series is at ~1500m altitude and 70km distance of any large city.
[1] http://darksitefinder.com http://darksitefinder.com
[2] https://stellarium.org/ https://stellarium.org/
- glup 6y agoAdding to that: at least historically, full frame DSLRs took better low-light pictures; smaller sensors had more noise because of the density. Not sure if this is still true.
- snazz 6y agoIt's definitely still true, but the difference is getting smaller as sensor tech improves. My DSLR is a Nikon D80 from 2006. While it's not full-frame, its sensor is much bigger than the one on my iPhone 8, yet my phone works far better in low-light conditions. The highest non-expanded sensitivity on the D80 is ISO 1600, which is already very grainy. Bump that up to the highest possible ISO 3200 and you're in for a lot of touch-up work.