> With the tip you've only got a few teeth trying to take out bites of wood so they get more wood per bite Thinking about it more, I'm pretty sure the bigger d

> With the tip you've only got a few teeth trying to take out bites of wood so they get more wood per bite Thinking about it more, I'm pretty sure the bigger difference is the direction of the wood fibers relative to the chain. The fibers can be visualized as a bundle of straws. In "normal" Alaskan milling, you are cutting almost perpendicular to the straws. In his approach, you are cutting almost parallel to the straws. Cutting perpendicular takes the most force, produces the smallest chips, and makes the smoothest cut. Cutting parallel rips out fibers, takes less force, and isn't quite as smooth. > I notice he wasn't using any wedges with his alaskan mill set up, so the board is trying to fall into the blade the entire time. Somewhere deep in the comments he mentioned he was using wedges, but they just weren't in the video. I don't think wedges make a big difference during the cut, though. The newly cut board is still completely supported at the joint, and bar tends to slide backward freely if the saw is turned off. Where the wedges matter most is at the very end of the cut, once the new board is no longer supported. > Also am I imagining it or is his chainsaw ingesting a lot more dust in the horizontal cuts than the vertical? It's probably a tiny bit more, but this doesn't seem to be a big issue. The air intake is well separated from the chip exit, and if your chain is sharp the chips are large enough to fall quickly to the ground. I check the air filter after milling, and it doesn't seem to get clogged any more rapidly than during regular chainsaw use.