I'm surprised no-one so far in the comments mentioned the smell of piss in the streets - has that changed? Seems like it must have. I was there in the mid 80s.

I'm surprised no-one so far in the comments mentioned the smell of piss in the streets - has that changed? Seems like it must have. I was there in the mid 80s. I loved it. Particularly amazing melt-in-your-mouth croissants for breakfast and delicious huge (almost apple-sized) strawberries bought by the kilo. And the art and architecture, of course.