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According to William Finnegan in Barbarian Days [0], people who start after age 14 or so have close to zero chance of becoming proficient. [0] https://www.amaz

by jgwil2 7y ago

According to William Finnegan in Barbarian Days [0], people who start after age 14 or so have close to zero chance of becoming proficient. [0] https://www.amazon.com/Barbarian-Days-Surfing-William-Finnegan/dp/0143109391/ref=mp_s_a_1_1 https://www.amazon.com/Barbarian-Days-Surfing-William-Finneg...

rurban 7y ago
That's wrong. I was surfing teacher, and regardless of age it takes 2-5 years to learn it. Some environments are easier, some are harder, but surfing is still both, the hardest and most dissatisfying, and then the most elegant and satisfying sport. Many people started learning at 40, and it still needed 5 years.
allsunny 7y ago
i started just a few years ago in my mid-30s. i'm proficient: i can paddle and catch my own waves, go up and down "the line", i can stay out of the way (very important :) do turns, etc. i moved to the beach though once i knew i was hooked. i go several times a week, sometimes twice a day. there are guys/gals out there that have been doing it their whole life who i would say... very humbly, that ive surpassed. once i moved to the beach i started progressing super fast. i grew up skateboarding a lot, so i think that has something to do w/ it. however! i once heard an old surfer describe surfing proficiency vs being good w/ an analogy: "you're fluent in the language, but when you talk, we hear the accent." and, like i said, i skateboarded a lot and that immediately makes sense to me. when i see folks skateboard that learned later in life i can immediately recognize it just by the way they push the board, let alone ride it. i'm ok w/ having an accent.
arbitrary_name 7y ago
I love the book but disagree. It's highly unlikely most people will be able to become proficient later in life, but that's due to the need to live near the ocean,commit to sticking at something for a while, etc which most folks just don't do

by jgwil2 7y ago

rurban 7y ago

That's wrong. I was surfing teacher, and regardless of age it takes 2-5 years to learn it. Some environments are easier, some are harder, but surfing is still both, the hardest and most dissatisfying, and then the most elegant and satisfying sport. Many people started learning at 40, and it still needed 5 years.

allsunny 7y ago

i started just a few years ago in my mid-30s. i'm proficient: i can paddle and catch my own waves, go up and down "the line", i can stay out of the way (very important :) do turns, etc. i moved to the beach though once i knew i was hooked. i go several times a week, sometimes twice a day. there are guys/gals out there that have been doing it their whole life who i would say... very humbly, that ive surpassed. once i moved to the beach i started progressing super fast. i grew up skateboarding a lot, so i think that has something to do w/ it. however! i once heard an old surfer describe surfing proficiency vs being good w/ an analogy: "you're fluent in the language, but when you talk, we hear the accent." and, like i said, i skateboarded a lot and that immediately makes sense to me. when i see folks skateboard that learned later in life i can immediately recognize it just by the way they push the board, let alone ride it. i'm ok w/ having an accent.

arbitrary_name 7y ago

I love the book but disagree. It's highly unlikely most people will be able to become proficient later in life, but that's due to the need to live near the ocean,commit to sticking at something for a while, etc which most folks just don't do