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I can’t really understand what’s happening here. Getting good at surfing is hard. Getting up on small, mostly foam waves is not hard. Typically achievable you
by pcmoney 7y ago
I can’t really understand what’s happening here.
Getting good at surfing is hard.
Getting up on small, mostly foam waves is not hard. Typically achievable your first time out, nobody I know that is remotely athletic has struggled to do that in 2-3ft surf. Once you get that first wave you are hooked and then its all nailing the timing. Which takes time.
Practicing the prone to standing explosive move on the beach 10-15 times before hand is helpful.
No idea why these people are so bad.
- seshagiric 7y agoIf you did not feel this way, well and good, but there are lot others who do and never learn to be any little good. Just too much focus on "learning" or thinking it is work....I think the video is about learning and not particularly surfing. Happened to me learning to Ski, and I have pretty similar experience as they talked in the video. After two years of 'learning', the real improvement came only after I started to just let it go. Enjoy the time on the slopes, comparing small moves, figuring out balance and eventually figuring out to parallel ski.
- SKILNER 7y agoI agree, this video is about learning, with surfing as an example. "It can't be taught, it must be learned." I immediately sent this to a friend who decided to learn guitar and has spent the last two years trying to achieve a long ride over the fretboard.
- pcmoney 7y agoI agree with you in terms of there are bell curves for innate athletic ability etc etc. but for the vast majority I would say that if it takes you more than a season to stand up on a surfboard or parallel ski then there is probably a fundamental blocker somewhere up the chain. Either a mental block or an area of training deficiency that can be much better remedied with a focused effort in that area. In these cases I feel trying to do a complex, nuanced, full body sport is akin to doing Calculus without grasping Algebra. You can take that Calc I class 100x and you will still fail. I am not trying to be critical of those who struggle to learn but suggest that there is often a way to shortcut that frustration. I love seeing people "get" a new sport and despite how inspiring their persistence it is really disheartening to see people fail unnecessarily for years.
- yodsanklai 7y agoPretty much my experience (I took a few days class in Bali). The timing was the hardest part, it helped having the instructor nearby giving instructions in real time. I think what makes surfing hard is that you spend a lot of time waiting for the right wave. You can spend a long time in the water for just a few attempts. When you learn snowboarding, you will find the right slope (hopefully soft snow), and you will repeat the moves until you get it.