Waves break in water depths approximately 1.3 times their height. So if most surfers surf in waves up to about 6ft, the water depth below a surfer is only abou

Waves break in water depths approximately 1.3 times their height. So if most surfers surf in waves up to about 6ft, the water depth below a surfer is only about 8 feet. If the waves get bigger than that, it quickly thins out the crowds. On ten foot days, typically only a few people will be out. See: https://magicseaweed.com/help/near-shore-effects/breaking-waves https://magicseaweed.com/help/near-shore-effects/breaking-wa...