Ordering an expensive watch straight from a known master is one option, they usually don't spend a lot of money on managers, dealers or even advertising. For 20

Ordering an expensive watch straight from a known master is one option, they usually don't spend a lot of money on managers, dealers or even advertising. For 20k you've got plenty options. The only downside is that selling your generic-but-good-quality rolex is easy and repairing/maintenance can be done everywhere while things with small brands can sometimes be more complicated. Designing and making a mechanical watch with many complications takes a lot of time, so it's entirely possible to buy even a 200k watch where you are mostly paying for the actual labor (of a high-skilled professional/artist).