That's why a lot of breaks are literally un-surfable in bigger swells. What was once a nice sandbar or reef, now only has whitewater and their are waves breakin

That's why a lot of breaks are literally un-surfable in bigger swells. What was once a nice sandbar or reef, now only has whitewater and their are waves breaking well past the usual spot--usually in a way that is either two dangerous or not fun. I remember paddling out at C-Street in Ventura in 14-17ft swell...didn't surf a thing and thought I was going to die. Go on a 4ft day and you will be lucky to find a place in the line-up.