6 ms·

Can anyone suggest a hobbyist/entry-level 3D scanner? I have a 3D printer that I would love to replicate or modify some real-world objects on.

toomuchtodo 7y ago
Photogrammetry apps are your best bet at the hobbyist level. Might be tough with some materials or shapes, but it isn’t going to set you back $35k. I assume it’ll only be a matter of time before this tech makes it into everyone’s smartphones. Sensors and algorithms are cheap. https://www.aniwaa.com/best-3d-scanning-apps-smartphones/ https://www.aniwaa.com/best-3d-scanning-apps-smartphones/
speps 7y ago
Got this in my emails recently: https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Budget-3D-Scanner-V3/ https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Budget-3D-Scanner-V3/
cjbprime 7y ago
I think for entry level there are lots of apps for Android/iPhone that are passable for small objects but time-consuming.
skykooler 7y ago
Perhaps check out https://www.open-electronics.org/an-open-source-3d-scanner-made-with-raspberry-pi/ https://www.open-electronics.org/an-open-source-3d-scanner-m...
sleepysysadmin 7y ago
Your cellphone. Iphone has the best 3d scanner apps, android has some good ones. They use photogrammatry and do a fine job.
nickthegreek 7y ago
They all suck. I've tried so many from cellphones to $5k devices. Until you get into $20k systems, don't expect a workable scan that doesn't required many hours of CAD work for cleanup. Photogrammetry will be your best bet. Also not cheap. https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/photogrammetry-software https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/photogrammetry-software I would really suggest learning Fusion 360 for mechanical or blender for organic modeling and build from scratch. It's a great toolset to know and can be very rewarding. It will teach your core skills that you can apply all the time with your 3d printer. If you have never done any 3d work before, start with tinkercad.com until you feel comfortable.
- nategri 7y ago
  Tangentially related but I've had a 3D printer for years but only just recently learned Fusion 360; it has been a real game changer in terms of the kind of projects I can tackle. Can't recommend it enough.
  - womitt 7y ago
    Shapr3D was the game changer for me - although you need an iPad pro for that one
  - yardie 7y ago
    What did you use to learn F360? I’ve been meaning to get started for a minute. But when I have the time I tend to forget to fire up 360.
    - nickthegreek 7y ago
      I used lynda.com myself. In many cities in the USA you can get free access to the site through your local library. I found it easier then searching for a video here and there on youtube.
      - deleted 7y ago
        [deleted]
      - yardie 7y ago
        I’ll look into it. I have pluralsight through work. But I’ll check the library for Lynda.com access.
    - mch82 7y ago
      Start with making rings. It sounds silly, but they’re small so they print fast so you’ll get to learn fast. Plus, people will enjoy them. Containers is a great next step from rings. They’ll encourage learning about fit, coordinate systems, and support structures.
    - nategri 7y ago
snovv_crash 7y ago
For $400 you can get the Occipital Structure Core [1] with Skanect Pro scanning software bundled. I've used Structure Cores for other purposes, and they seem pretty good. Not sure what your accuracy will be though. 1. https://store.structure.io/buy/structure-core https://store.structure.io/buy/structure-core
Cyclenerd 7y ago
Check out https://github.com/alicevision/meshroom https://github.com/alicevision/meshroom Video tutorial from Prusa: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc
gorkish 7y ago
At the hobbyist level currently the best results (in terms of cost/quality and time/quality and overall capability) can be achieved using photogrammetry in conjunction with processing in Meshroom and post processing in Meshlab or Blender or editor of your own selection. This works for really tiny stuff right up through drones scanning entire buildings, and the workflow is the same. That's not to say there isn't a knack to it or things you have to learn. But it's the right direction to explore right now. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye-C-OOFsX8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye-C-OOFsX8 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc for a quick intro. There are alternative workflows and "low cost" commercial hardware and software products even for photogrammetry in the market. Nearly every technique I have tried or seen produces a much lower quality result than the above, costs a lot more, or has some other limitation (such as the size of the object you can scan) that radically limit its usefulness. This is of course until you get to the high end scanners like the one linked here which use one or more high resolution LIDAR sensors in conjunction with cameras, lights, motion sensors, etc: alll selected and calibrated to give precision results. If you can stomach the price they are awesome. But to some degree, commercial solutions regardless of cost will often promise their output will require "no editing or post processing" You should be aware that this is total baloney. You will absolutely have to devote a little time and effort into learning how to edit, clean, and simplify meshes regardless of what you intend to do with them. All this being said, this advice only really applies to objects where 3d scanning has some merit. If you want to 3d print something like a replacement part for a broken appliance, often 3d scanning even with an expensive commercial scanner is not the best approach. Many times it's considerably faster to pull out a pair of calipers and simply model the object in some CAD software like Fusion360 or for real simple stuff, even TinkerCAD.
- ur-whale 7y ago
  Meshroom is really good, and it's even better for large scale stuff (like landscape / architecture reconstruction from aerial pics).
gaze 7y ago
Nothing works. I promise. I’ve even used these extremely high end scanners like the creaform ones and they suck. Here’s how I get _good_ results on complex objects. Use agisoft photoscan, a cheap SLR and a stepper motor controlled turntable. You need to put all this in a photo tent and light it as flatly as possible. Then, you need to do surface prep. Spray your object with magnaflux spotchek. This is a white powder in acetone which will go down on the surface and make it temporarily matte. It wipes off when done. When you’re done, process the images, process the mesh, and pull it into Rhino to repair it. If you’re modeling for a functional replacement, pull out your calipers and take measurements and use your 3D scan essentially to pick off profiles that you can loft to remodel the final object. This shit is really hard.
- jefft255 7y ago
  What where you trying to scan that the creaform one couldn't handle? I've worked with them for metrology and they are really good.
  - gaze 7y ago
    A knob for a vintage oscilloscope. It’s entirely possible that myself and the guy that maintained it in the architecture dept of my school just weren’t well versed in its intricacies.
    - jefft255 7y ago
      My guess would also be that it’s small-ish for this kind of scanner.
carriere4 7y ago
If you have access to an iPhoneX and some patience, Scandy Pro is worth a try: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/scandy-pro/id1388028223?ls=1 https://apps.apple.com/us/app/scandy-pro/id1388028223?ls=1
russley 7y ago
I had some minor luck with capturing 3D objects in Meshroom, then using Blender to refine/simplify the model, before taking it into Meshmixer to prepare for actual 3D printing. I don't know how phone cameras hold up, but I was able to achieve decent results with a DSLR and some daylight lighting.
toddwprice 7y ago
As others have said, if you want to replace an existing part, it's probably actually better to redesign it. I use OpenSCAD to do simple 3D designs in code. It's easy to get started if you're a developer. As for scanning, I've used Trnio on iPhone for artistic scans. e.g. I scanned my dog and printed a tiny replica. My nephew thought it was a pile of melted yogurt, but I knew what it was. :-)
alexschiff 7y ago
Check out Structure Sensor (structure.io) if you haven't yet. Full disclosure I work for the company that makes it :)
knolan 7y ago
The Kinect is okay as a 3D scanner.
TheRealSteel 7y ago
The Galaxy Note 10+ has one, but I don't know how good it is.

toomuchtodo 7y ago

Photogrammetry apps are your best bet at the hobbyist level. Might be tough with some materials or shapes, but it isn’t going to set you back $35k. I assume it’ll only be a matter of time before this tech makes it into everyone’s smartphones. Sensors and algorithms are cheap. https://www.aniwaa.com/best-3d-scanning-apps-smartphones/ https://www.aniwaa.com/best-3d-scanning-apps-smartphones/

speps 7y ago

Got this in my emails recently: https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Budget-3D-Scanner-V3/ https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Budget-3D-Scanner-V3/

cjbprime 7y ago

I think for entry level there are lots of apps for Android/iPhone that are passable for small objects but time-consuming.

skykooler 7y ago

Perhaps check out https://www.open-electronics.org/an-open-source-3d-scanner-made-with-raspberry-pi/ https://www.open-electronics.org/an-open-source-3d-scanner-m...

sleepysysadmin 7y ago

Your cellphone. Iphone has the best 3d scanner apps, android has some good ones. They use photogrammatry and do a fine job.

nickthegreek 7y ago

They all suck. I've tried so many from cellphones to $5k devices. Until you get into $20k systems, don't expect a workable scan that doesn't required many hours of CAD work for cleanup. Photogrammetry will be your best bet. Also not cheap. https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/photogrammetry-software https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/photogrammetry-software I would really suggest learning Fusion 360 for mechanical or blender for organic modeling and build from scratch. It's a great toolset to know and can be very rewarding. It will teach your core skills that you can apply all the time with your 3d printer. If you have never done any 3d work before, start with tinkercad.com until you feel comfortable.

nategri 7y ago
Tangentially related but I've had a 3D printer for years but only just recently learned Fusion 360; it has been a real game changer in terms of the kind of projects I can tackle. Can't recommend it enough.
- womitt 7y ago
  Shapr3D was the game changer for me - although you need an iPad pro for that one
- yardie 7y ago
  What did you use to learn F360? I’ve been meaning to get started for a minute. But when I have the time I tend to forget to fire up 360.
  - nickthegreek 7y ago
    I used lynda.com myself. In many cities in the USA you can get free access to the site through your local library. I found it easier then searching for a video here and there on youtube.
    - deleted 7y ago
      [deleted]
    - yardie 7y ago
      I’ll look into it. I have pluralsight through work. But I’ll check the library for Lynda.com access.
  - mch82 7y ago
    Start with making rings. It sounds silly, but they’re small so they print fast so you’ll get to learn fast. Plus, people will enjoy them. Containers is a great next step from rings. They’ll encourage learning about fit, coordinate systems, and support structures.
  - nategri 7y ago

snovv_crash 7y ago

For $400 you can get the Occipital Structure Core [1] with Skanect Pro scanning software bundled. I've used Structure Cores for other purposes, and they seem pretty good. Not sure what your accuracy will be though. 1. https://store.structure.io/buy/structure-core https://store.structure.io/buy/structure-core

Cyclenerd 7y ago

Check out https://github.com/alicevision/meshroom https://github.com/alicevision/meshroom Video tutorial from Prusa: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc

gorkish 7y ago

At the hobbyist level currently the best results (in terms of cost/quality and time/quality and overall capability) can be achieved using photogrammetry in conjunction with processing in Meshroom and post processing in Meshlab or Blender or editor of your own selection. This works for really tiny stuff right up through drones scanning entire buildings, and the workflow is the same. That's not to say there isn't a knack to it or things you have to learn. But it's the right direction to explore right now. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye-C-OOFsX8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye-C-OOFsX8 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc for a quick intro. There are alternative workflows and "low cost" commercial hardware and software products even for photogrammetry in the market. Nearly every technique I have tried or seen produces a much lower quality result than the above, costs a lot more, or has some other limitation (such as the size of the object you can scan) that radically limit its usefulness. This is of course until you get to the high end scanners like the one linked here which use one or more high resolution LIDAR sensors in conjunction with cameras, lights, motion sensors, etc: alll selected and calibrated to give precision results. If you can stomach the price they are awesome. But to some degree, commercial solutions regardless of cost will often promise their output will require "no editing or post processing" You should be aware that this is total baloney. You will absolutely have to devote a little time and effort into learning how to edit, clean, and simplify meshes regardless of what you intend to do with them. All this being said, this advice only really applies to objects where 3d scanning has some merit. If you want to 3d print something like a replacement part for a broken appliance, often 3d scanning even with an expensive commercial scanner is not the best approach. Many times it's considerably faster to pull out a pair of calipers and simply model the object in some CAD software like Fusion360 or for real simple stuff, even TinkerCAD.

ur-whale 7y ago
Meshroom is really good, and it's even better for large scale stuff (like landscape / architecture reconstruction from aerial pics).

gaze 7y ago

Nothing works. I promise. I’ve even used these extremely high end scanners like the creaform ones and they suck. Here’s how I get _good_ results on complex objects. Use agisoft photoscan, a cheap SLR and a stepper motor controlled turntable. You need to put all this in a photo tent and light it as flatly as possible. Then, you need to do surface prep. Spray your object with magnaflux spotchek. This is a white powder in acetone which will go down on the surface and make it temporarily matte. It wipes off when done. When you’re done, process the images, process the mesh, and pull it into Rhino to repair it. If you’re modeling for a functional replacement, pull out your calipers and take measurements and use your 3D scan essentially to pick off profiles that you can loft to remodel the final object. This shit is really hard.

jefft255 7y ago
What where you trying to scan that the creaform one couldn't handle? I've worked with them for metrology and they are really good.
- gaze 7y ago
  A knob for a vintage oscilloscope. It’s entirely possible that myself and the guy that maintained it in the architecture dept of my school just weren’t well versed in its intricacies.
  - jefft255 7y ago
    My guess would also be that it’s small-ish for this kind of scanner.

carriere4 7y ago

If you have access to an iPhoneX and some patience, Scandy Pro is worth a try: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/scandy-pro/id1388028223?ls=1 https://apps.apple.com/us/app/scandy-pro/id1388028223?ls=1

russley 7y ago

I had some minor luck with capturing 3D objects in Meshroom, then using Blender to refine/simplify the model, before taking it into Meshmixer to prepare for actual 3D printing. I don't know how phone cameras hold up, but I was able to achieve decent results with a DSLR and some daylight lighting.

toddwprice 7y ago

As others have said, if you want to replace an existing part, it's probably actually better to redesign it. I use OpenSCAD to do simple 3D designs in code. It's easy to get started if you're a developer. As for scanning, I've used Trnio on iPhone for artistic scans. e.g. I scanned my dog and printed a tiny replica. My nephew thought it was a pile of melted yogurt, but I knew what it was. :-)

alexschiff 7y ago

Check out Structure Sensor (structure.io) if you haven't yet. Full disclosure I work for the company that makes it :)

knolan 7y ago

The Kinect is okay as a 3D scanner.

TheRealSteel 7y ago

The Galaxy Note 10+ has one, but I don't know how good it is.