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I grew up with a pretty strong culinary tradition (Sicilian-American), and it was only when I left home around 17/18 that I realized how privileged I was to hav
by michaelchisari 16y ago
I grew up with a pretty strong culinary tradition (Sicilian-American), and it was only when I left home around 17/18 that I realized how privileged I was to have a grown up with a father and grandfather that were extraordinary cooks. My grandfather was master baker at Gonnella for decades, a genius in many ways, and my father is easily following in his footsteps.
My family was not rich, but I would not have traded their cooking skills to have grown up eating in the most expensive restaurants.
It was not unusual growing up to have homemade bread around.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs887.snc4/72084_1507521417181_1508676473_31100003_2373676_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs887.snc4/72084...
(From my dad's fb)
My father bakes pastries as a hobby, at one point, he made three large bins full of different types of cookies because work was slow and he needed to keep busy.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs124.snc1/5331_1078752418224_1508676473_30208370_1023986_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs124.snc1/5331_...
While my grandfather was more traditionally Sicilian in his style, my father is more Chicago. His deep dish pizza will knock your socks off, and sausage and peppers with fresh baked Italian bread is the stuff of champions.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1976/129/117/510304405/n510304405_1060548_3762.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1976/129/117/510... (Arancini, Octopus salad, Pasta salad, and Caponata)
I always took it for granted. When I moved out, I missed it. As I got older, I praised it. When my grandfather died, and I realized that I had spent a solid week talking about food, even the Priest talked about it, I realized that I need to get serious about doing it. When my father passes, it's up to me and my brothers to keep things going. Without it, all I have is the name.
So I'm a big advocate of building and rebuilding a culinary culture. It's easy for me, because mine never disappeared, but I understand it's more difficult for others whose families immigrated earlier, or whose cultures were purposely stamped out, to build that. And I think, for most people it's about enjoying cooking, and understanding the ingredients, for me, a culinary culture can't just be about assembly. It's about everything from philosophy to ideology, sex and love, family, emotion and science. And so much a person's personality and memory is wrapped up in how and what they cook. This Christmas, the first Christmas without my grandfather, my father made a traditional Christmas dinner, and it was heaven. One of the dishes was called Scacciata, a salty bread with tuma cheese that's just incredible. It was wonderful, but it was uniquely my father's creation, and I realized that I would never have it exactly the way my grandfather made it ever again.
I love America, but to be completely honest, the only thing I've ever considered emigrating over is the food culture. I get so envious of other countries that if I ever I do decide to leave (doubtful), that will be the reason.
This was long and somewhat meandering, but I'll leave you with this final scene from The Big Night, one of my favorite movies:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oerP7FRMWa8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oerP7FRMWa8
- tptacek 16y agoBig Night: also a great startup movie. I might take issue with the (implied) assertion that Chicago lacks a food culture, or that the average citizen of (say) Rome is necessarily steeped in one.
- michaelchisari 16y agoChicago has a restaurant culture, a particularly fantastic one (in my opinion the best in the U.S.), but I don't know if I consider that the same as a food culture. While there are some pretty good open markets, it's nothing like you'd get in Rome or Paris, and the idea of taking a three hours for lunch would get you laughed out of the workplace.
- tptacek 16y agoWe also have the Green Market and a smattering of farmer's markets, Paulina Meat Market, next week we'll have Rob & Allie's Butcher & Larder for traceably farm-to-table meat, sometime next year we'll have Paul Kahan's butcher project, and we have Fox & Obel for stuff like duck legs and hanger steaks. Lots of great bakeries, too. And that's before you get into the Mexican and Asian groceries. I'm watching Big Night again tonight thanks to you. Thanks!
- michaelchisari 16y agoI mean, I don't mean to disparage Chicago, I love this city (and hell yeah to Paulina Meat Market, that place is one of my favorites). I just don't think generally that Chicago has the kind of culinary culture that European cities do, and most of it comes from it's recent immigrants, although it's streets ahead of anywhere in the U.S., no doubt. BTW, I've been trying to find an actual Timpano recipe for years, but as far as I can tell, it's either a creation for the movie, or it's such an obscure regional food that it's hard to find any authentic recipes, although there are plenty of really good approximations.
- tptacek 16y ago