I did quite a bit of research before buying a handmade gyuto (a Japanese reinterpretation of the French chef's knife). One thing I found is that it's recommende

I did quite a bit of research before buying a handmade gyuto (a Japanese reinterpretation of the French chef's knife). One thing I found is that it's recommended not to cut anything with bones in it using such a knife. Because the steel is hardened more than is typical of a French or German chef's knife, it's likely to chip rather than roll over. It's also ground and sharpened at a narrower angle, which tends to be impossible with a softer steel because it will roll over during sharpening, producing a foil burr instead of a sharp edge. I haven't heard of anybody who knows much about the subject intentionally limiting how small they make the edge radius of a knife to preserve the durability of the edge. It's nearly always desirable to get the edge radius of a knife blade as small as possible, because it will take more wear or deformation before it's too thick to cut effectively. There is some subtlety though: a wider bevel angle is more stable and obviously adds resistance when cutting, though it can actually result in a smaller edge radius. A convex grind improves both stability and edge radius, but is more difficult to produce. My gyuto has a convex primary grind, but the edge bevel was straight, as a flat stone would produce. A santoku doesn't typically have a hollow grind, though some specialty knives like the yanagiba are typically concave on one side and flat or convex or the other. There are some interesting electron micrographs of hand-sharpened knife and razor blades at https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/ https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/