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Hmm, weird article - I wish the author knew more about climbing, as they are getting it a bit wrong. Alex couldn't have been birthed 100 years ago and climbed
by justinator 7y ago
Hmm, weird article - I wish the author knew more about climbing, as they are getting it a bit wrong.
Alex couldn't have been birthed 100 years ago and climbed El Cap. The route he used still needed to be established by others. Alex climbed that already-established routes dozens of times before committing to not use all the tech the author thinks he doesn't need. The rehearsal was key. If there's a takeaway from him, it's: "practice".
The route also had to be modified to allow anyone to climb it free - I'm talking about modifying the rock itself. 100 years ago, the climb would have been different. Not hugely so, but one key handhold present that was there before could have made all the difference.
The happened in the first free ascent of the Nose too - an entire pitch was chipped in an attempt to free it, by a different person. They failed, but the route, once chipped, cannot be healed.