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> Another point. We don't actually know how good the best climbers were throughout history. There's a clear upward trajectory to 19th-century British mountainee
by tomxor 7y ago
> Another point. We don't actually know how good the best climbers were throughout history. There's a clear upward trajectory to 19th-century British mountaineering and its descendants. But how good were the best Incan climbers in 1350?
Even through the early 19th century climbers were much better than given credit for, part of this is also how grading shifts over time. I've experienced this first hand, climbed some old "HVS" routes (fairly easy grade) established in early 19th century in wales (UK), only to find them in the low extremes by modern standards, maybe E2/3 (no this wasn't mere sandbaging), on top of which they were using heavy gear, unsafe gear and mountain boots!
I have much respect for forgotten pioneers of climbing, they were much tougher than they appeared on the face of their accomplishments.
We all have little jokes in climbing when conditions make routes harder like rain, cold, dirt, birds whatever, "oh this bird shit turns it into a VS / E12 today".. it's silly, but when applied generally, it's true - every aspect that is different can make the same climb significantly harder or easier for others, those pioneers probably were climbing E9 for them.
- rurp 7y agoI learned out how to climb multi-pitch at Tahquitz, where the American grading system was first established. 5.9+ in that area is a terrifying grade. American grades were originally a closed system that topped out at 5.9. For a time climbers were climbing harder and harder routes, but rating them all 5.9. The system eventually got switched to be open ended, but grades are sticky and it definitely helps to know when a route was established in addition to what the guide book rating is.
- tomxor 7y agoYes it was the same for the British adjectival trad system, ES used to be the top grade (after HVS) and this grade is now divided into an open ended scale E1-E11... but I think this probably caused some hard climbs to be categorised as HVS in an attempt to differentiate from the _really_ hard climbs in ES at the time. It's worth checking the FA date around this grade in old crags for this reason, but even being aware in my case - it was surprising just how much harder they can be.