The fast'n'loose rule: if it is loose, don't hang on it or put gear behind it unless absolutely necessary! That said, there's a bunch of well-known "expando" f

The fast'n'loose rule: if it is loose, don't hang on it or put gear behind it unless absolutely necessary! That said, there's a bunch of well-known "expando" flakes, particularly in big-wall granite areas like Yosemite, that are necessary for certain routes. Even the ones that have been around for a while, though, do eventually come down: http://www.rockymountainrescue.org/eldo_DB_27apr08.php http://www.rockymountainrescue.org/eldo_DB_27apr08.php