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Why not tie an Alpine Butterfly in advance? Isn't that more secure than Prusik or Klemheist? Or does it weaken the main rope too much? Or are you saying to use

Why not tie an Alpine Butterfly in advance? Isn't that more secure than Prusik or Klemheist? Or does it weaken the main rope too much? Or are you saying to use a pair of Prusik knots to self rescue, by climbing the rope?

JshWright 8y ago
Yeah, the parent comment is talking about using a pair of Prusiks to ascend (or to at least make loops you can use to stand). An Alpine Butterfly can't be moved, so it's not especially useful in many applications.
- planteen 8y ago
  Yep exactly. I'm talking about a pair of Prusiks to climb the rope. Of course ascenders/Jumars are even better. :)
  - mirimir 8y ago
    Thanks. So when I was a kid, they made us climb a ~3 cm rope about 20 meters. With no aids, and just a padded mat for protection.
    - JshWright 8y ago
      20m? That's a fatal fall...
      - mirimir 8y ago
        OK, upon reflection, more like 8-10 meters. The ceiling height in the gymnasium. It was a long time ago, and what I mostly remember is the fear of falling. And the rope burns.