3 ms·

Whenever i'm climbing outside i have a few lengths of dyneema or cordelette that i can rig into a prussick or kleinheist for self-rescue or for staying comfy at

Whenever i'm climbing outside i have a few lengths of dyneema or cordelette that i can rig into a prussick or kleinheist for self-rescue or for staying comfy at multipitch belays that don't have nice ledges. I don't hangdog all that much, so i was actually unaware of this risk, but it's worth keeping in mind!

oftenwrong 8y ago
Dyneema is not the best choice for friction hitches due to its low melting point. This is primarily a concern when using it as a backup for abseiling or lowering, or in any situation where you may take a fall onto the friction hitch.
- hprotagonist 8y ago
  I know. I don't use it for raps, but it's just fine as a static or static-ish anchor.
takk309 8y ago
This is less of a risk in a climbing harness due to the location of the tie in point. With the point in front of you at your waist, it is possible to shift your legs around even when free hanging. Think about doing a rappel on a long free hang. For me, I keep my legs in front of me and more or less above my waist. If you were tied in at a point on your back, as construction harnesses use, your center of mass is below the suspension point and the only position you can grab the rope is with your arms above and behind your head. Try doing a pull up in that positions, it is extremely hard.
- planteen 8y ago
  I once was indoors as a "training dummy" who got stuck on-rope rapelling and waited for someone to come up from the bottom to pick me off. My "tie in" point was a rack at my waist on the front. It takes a while to do this as it's not easy to climb past someone in single rope technique. I definitely felt my legs starting to go numb, even when I was kicking them around to keep blood flowing. I was hanging in space. That experience hit home to show the reality of harness hang syndrome.

3 ms·

Whenever i'm climbing outside i have a few lengths of dyneema or cordelette that i can rig into a prussick or kleinheist for self-rescue or for staying comfy at

by hprotagonist 8y ago

oftenwrong 8y ago
Dyneema is not the best choice for friction hitches due to its low melting point. This is primarily a concern when using it as a backup for abseiling or lowering, or in any situation where you may take a fall onto the friction hitch.
- hprotagonist 8y ago
  I know. I don't use it for raps, but it's just fine as a static or static-ish anchor.
takk309 8y ago
This is less of a risk in a climbing harness due to the location of the tie in point. With the point in front of you at your waist, it is possible to shift your legs around even when free hanging. Think about doing a rappel on a long free hang. For me, I keep my legs in front of me and more or less above my waist. If you were tied in at a point on your back, as construction harnesses use, your center of mass is below the suspension point and the only position you can grab the rope is with your arms above and behind your head. Try doing a pull up in that positions, it is extremely hard.
- planteen 8y ago
  I once was indoors as a "training dummy" who got stuck on-rope rapelling and waited for someone to come up from the bottom to pick me off. My "tie in" point was a rack at my waist on the front. It takes a while to do this as it's not easy to climb past someone in single rope technique. I definitely felt my legs starting to go numb, even when I was kicking them around to keep blood flowing. I was hanging in space. That experience hit home to show the reality of harness hang syndrome.