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Just for some context, the author wrote an autobiography called Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life that won a pulitzer prize and is a bible for a lot of surfers. Pr
by laxatives 8y ago
Just for some context, the author wrote an autobiography called Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life that won a pulitzer prize and is a bible for a lot of surfers. Probably just about every (American) surfer with a college degree has read that book.