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Best exchange from the interview... "I said can you picture some kid who just learns in a wave pool but has this perfect wave at his disposal, and becomes unim
by subroutine 8y ago
Best exchange from the interview...
"I said can you picture some kid who just learns in a wave pool but has this perfect wave at his disposal, and becomes unimaginably skilled, and becomes a world champion because they trained on this incredible wave. And she says yeah, and then they paddle out at the pipeline and drown. And we both laughed"