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A couple things to add about lights at night: 1. Don't use a blinking light (front or rear) as your sole light. A blinking light is bad for driver depth percep
by Johnny555 8y ago
A couple things to add about lights at night:
1. Don't use a blinking light (front or rear) as your sole light. A blinking light is bad for driver depth perception, they'll be able to see that you're there somewhere, but it will be hard for them to localize exactly where you are and how far away you are - use at least one steady light.
2. At night, more lumens is not always better. You may think that when it comes to lights, brighter is better, but you really don't need that 1000+ lumen light in the front or that "Can be seen for 5 miles" eye searing taillight for most road riding.
Most bike lights have terrible beam patterns -- sending as much light above the road and into driver's eyes as they do down at the road where you need it. So while you may be able to see, you're blinding everyone else. And because this pattern lights up the road just in front of you more than farther away, you're making it harder to see people and objects farther away.
I highly recommend an StVZO approved (German bike regulation) head light -- it will have a beam pattern with a sharp cutoff so you can illuminate the road without blinding other riders and drivers. Busch and Muller makes some great lights with this beam pattern.
In the daytime, however, feel free to go with bright and flashing.
- giobox 8y ago> I highly recommend an StVZO approved (German bike regulation) head light While I find the idea behind StVZO sound, if you only shop StVZO approved lights you are at a stroke eliminating a lot of extremely good quality lights at pretty much all price points. Even among really high-end bike light brands (Exposure etc), often only a limited subset of their range has received this certification. Much of the issues with blinding other riders and drivers can be mitigated almost entirely by setting the light at a sensible angle on your handlebars, if it even is an issue for the light you have. > Most bike lights have terrible beam patterns This really isn't true of good lights from reputable companies, and hasn't been for a while. A no-name bikelight from Amazon for 5 bucks might differ. > but you really don't need that 1000+ lumen light in the front or that "Can be seen for 5 miles" eye searing taillight for most road riding. This entirely depends on one's needs, but if you cycle anywhere that has zero street lighting, such as backroads at night, 800-1000 lumen lights are the _dimmest_ I would consider. Especially on a roadbike at ~20MPH, you absolutely need that level of brightness in pitch black to ride with similar confidence to daytime. For in city use, I absolutely agree though. There is a difference between lights for being seen by others, and lights that allow you to see in pitch black environments. If you are struggling to pick a light, I really like the road.cc light comparison tool, which allows you to compare the actual beams. https://lights.road.cc/ https://lights.road.cc/
- Johnny555 8y agoThat comparison tool illustrates the problem. Look at the beam from the ~150UKP Cateye or Niterider (not cheap lights), see how the man standing ~10m away is perfectly lit up, bright as day? That means he's got the full beam in his eyes. As would an incoming cyclist or motorist Compare to the B&M IXON series beam, see how even 45 meters away, the beam cutoff is so sharp that someone standing down there would have their head above the beam cutoff. https://www.bumm.de/en/products/dynamo-scheinwerfer/produkt/1752qtsndi.html https://www.bumm.de/en/products/dynamo-scheinwerfer/produkt/... The main LED points backwards on those lights so not only do they have better control over beam pattern, but there's no incidental light coming direct from the LED -- the entire beam leaving the light is shaped by the reflector.
- giobox 8y agoThe man In question is wearing a high visibility reflective jacket almost directly in front of the bike, it’s little surprise the vast majority of bike lights will cause this to illuminate. I still think this is a much more effective tool to pick a bike light than a still relatively niche German regulation. It’s not perfect either, but it’s the least worst approach I’ve seen.
- Johnny555 8y agoHis face is fully illuminated: https://lights.road.cc/beams/201817.jpg https://lights.road.cc/beams/201817.jpg Which means the main beam is shining in his eyes. The point of buying a StVZO light is not that it meets some arbitrary regulation, it's that such lights are certified to have a sharp beam cutoff that can be aimed to avoid unnecessary glare in oncoming cyclist eyes. https://pwoptics.weebly.com/model-2025.html https://pwoptics.weebly.com/model-2025.html
- cronix 8y agoI have an addition to your great points here re #2. There have been numerous times, as an automobile driver, I'll be approaching a cyclist at night with a bright light, and it's so blindingly bright in the darkness it actually makes it hard to precisely see them. Almost like someone taking a pic in your face at night with a flash, or walking from a very bright room outside where it's dark. It takes your eyes longer to recover and see the surroundings clearly again. The closer you get to them, the harder it is to "see" them, which is very dangerous. The same is also true for some modern car headlights that are so bright it almost looks like they are driving with their highbeams on.
- Johnny555 8y agoGood point, that happens with bright tail lights too -- many times I've been approaching someone on the bike path with a super bright tail light, and it's really hard to tell exactly how close I am to them as I approach. And it's completely impossible to see if anyone is coming the other way so it's hard to pass.