3 ms·
It depends a lot on where you are. I'm based in Northern California where the sea is cold, the waves are mostly created by beach breaks (meaning somewhat random
by olivermarks 8y ago
It depends a lot on where you are.
I'm based in Northern California where the sea is cold, the waves are mostly created by beach breaks (meaning somewhat random tide influenced sand formations creating waves) and it is very hard to paddle out through the white water surf to where the rideable waves are.
Beginners need a big long stable board, but getting that size of device through breaking waves can be very tough.
I'd recommend going somewhere warm with exactly the same wave breaking in the same place every time (a point break) to learn and get a feel for it.
I'm an aspirational surfer but wouldn't dream of calling myself one, I spend 99% of the time flailing around and doing cartwheels underwater, but it is an amazing feeling when you do become one with a wave, even when you are just laying down and trying to pop up...