3 ms·
I started last summer. Been about 15 times, 3 to 6 hours each time, also took a 5 day, 3hrs per day class. Still can't "surf". By "surf" I mean I can't catch a
by tokyodude 8y ago
I started last summer. Been about 15 times, 3 to 6 hours each time, also took a 5 day, 3hrs per day class. Still can't "surf".
By "surf" I mean I can't catch a wave in the sweet spot between too step and too shallow and ride away from be break. I can catch a wave and ride it straight in on the break/white water.
3 possibilities: (1) surfing is hard (2) the waves suck (3) I suck
I think it's a little of 1 and 2 (or I hope so). Watching surf videos they always show these perfect waves that crash on one side and the surfer can ride it for 10-30 seconds where as at the beach I'm usually at the waves don't make nice shapes.
On the other hand the instructor can still catch these bad waves in a way that is clearly above my skill level.
Long boards like 3 to 3.5 meters are the easiest to ride. If you watch "Endless Summer" (1966), probably the most famous surf movie, you'll see they are riding long boards. AFAICT long boards are kind of out of fashion. Most people seem to ride medium boards (2 meters). They are harder use (and what I happen to be using via my instructor).
If you can find a place with long shallow waves and a long board (like Waikiki) you can probably get started pretty quickly.
- rafaelm 8y agoI think that the part most people have a hard time with is when to actually start paddling for the wave. I think it's easier to just start riding waves on a bodyboard and not concentrate on the standing-up part yet. Just get the hang of which waves are good, when to paddle and catching waves. After that, concentrate on the standing up part. Source: Not an instructor, but I started as a teenager on bodyboards, then moved on to regular boards. Haven't surfed in a very long time unfortunately.