6 ms·
I'd be concerned about layer lines ending up in my final molds. If you look closely they'll end up in your final cast repeatedly. Perhaps this would be best acc
by bochoh 8y ago
I'd be concerned about layer lines ending up in my final molds. If you look closely they'll end up in your final cast repeatedly. Perhaps this would be best accomplished with a resin type 3d printer to minimize the issue.
- froindt 8y agoPost printing a very small amount of time with sandpaper (or acetone for certain materials) would smooth things out. It wouldn't work well for small details though.
- mdorazio 8y agoYou've got several options here, none of them great. 1) Use a resin printer and print the meta-molds at very high resolution, then lightly sand with high-grit paper or use a gap filling primer paint. 2) Use ABS, HIPS, or another acetone smoothable plastic and vapor bathe the meta-molds (would probably slightly mess up the split lines though). 3) Use a paint-on epoxy to manually smooth out the meta-mold interiors. 4) Manually sand as best as you can. The normal process for this would be to print the 3D model you want and then do a bunch of post-printing cleanup and treatment to get it to mold-ready quality, then cast a silicone mold of that. It's not super fun, but you can get good results without years of practice.
- birdman3131 8y ago5)Have one of the $40k clip printers that don't leave the lines.
- mdorazio 8y agoHeh, true. But if you've got a $40k printer you're probably sending out for professional molds already.
- virtualritz 8y agoRe.: 1) The latest generation of 'cheap' DLP printers can do 25 micron (e.g. the Phrozen Shuffle). After curing, dipping in resin again or priming and then coating with 2-3 layers with an airbrush results in a perfect surface finish. No sanding required.
- mdorazio 8y agoAre you actually getting a perfect surface finish that way? My Phrozen Make printing at 20 microns leaves noticeable lines and definitely requires cleanup around support attachment points. I tried doing the second dipping method and ended up with melty details on finer parts of prints. The only thing I haven't tried is sandblasting.
- virtualritz 8y agoThe Make can't do 20micron. It can do about 47 max (or rather, min), I think. Re-read my post: I was talking about the Phrozen Shuffle which has a different screen/display unit. Check the FB group for some 27micron examples done with the Shuffle.
- jjoonathan 8y ago> 25 micron Hey where did the 0.4 micron go?
- opencl 8y agoThe paper authors used FDM machines (Ultimaker 2+, a Stratasys J750, and a Stratasys Fortus 450 MC). But even the cheapest $500-ish resin printers can do 25 micron layers with 50-ish micron XY resolution and it is very very hard to see those layer lines.
- kragen 8y agoFDM machines are almost invariably resin printers; ABS and PLA are the most common resins for them to print in, although others exist. In theory you could do FDM in non-resin materials such as, for example, metals, but I don't know of any examples.
- diablerouge 8y agoYour parent comment is talking about DLP/SLA printers. Though you are technically correct about FDM being a resin printer, it's not the way hobbyists talk about it.
- kragen 8y agoMaybe hobbyists should say "SLA" if they mean "SLA". This is like people who say "wheat bread" as the antonym of "white bread" — what do you suppose they think white bread is made from? (And it sets them up to be ripped off, as there plenty of manufacturers out there who are happy to sell them "wheat bread" made from 75% white flour.)
- namibj 8y agoLost wax casting.